This chicken stew in coconut milk is sweet, sour and deeply savory

In late August, my editor, Joe Yonan, asked if I wanted to work on a profile of cookbook author Sandra Gutierrez. "Have you seen a preview of her new cookbook, 'Latinísimo'?" he asked, noting that recipes editor Ann Maloney was also impressed by it. I hadn't, but my interest was piqued.

Later that week, I was scrolling through a PDF of the book on my computer, my mind preoccupied by 27 other unfinished tasks, when I came upon a recipe for pupusas. I'd had them many times before, but had never thought to make them myself. Here was a recipe that looked easy enough to make in well under an hour. Suddenly, the scope and scale of Gutierrez's book came into view.

Recipes - more than 300 total - credited to Indigenous, Spanish, African and modern-day cooks were categorized by ingredient. Essays expanded on the origins of dishes, and the confluence of historical and cultural factors that led to their creation. At first, it appeared to be an encyclopedia of the food of all 21 countries that make up Latin America, something I hadn't seen since Maricel E. Presilla's fantastic 2012 "Gran Cocina Latina."

What makes "'Latinísimo'" distinct is that it was written by a home cook, for the home cook. At 592 pages, it could have easily read as academic, but instead is full of incredibly cookable recipes - and the sort of context that will make a curious cook want to give them a try. Recipes like this one, for Pollo en Coco, which is made in several Latin America countries, including Honduras, Guatemala, Colombia and Nicaragua.

In September, I flew to Cary, N.C., to spend a couple of days with Gutierrez in her home kitchen. On the second day, I watched her make this chicken stewed with aromatics in a coconut broth. While we chatted, she followed her own recipe in the book. As the dish came together, the smell - slightly sweet, sour and deeply savory - filled the room.

"The first time I had this chicken, at a friend's home in Honduras, she served it with lots of cilantro on top - more like a salad than a garnish," Gutierrez told me. "So now I always serve it that way."

The dish originated in coastal regions where coconut palms grow. In the recipe's headnote, Gutierrez writes that the stew's "deep coconut flavor reminded me of the curries of Thailand, but without the heat."

"Pollo en coco is traditionally made with banana vinegar or sour oranges," Gutierrez explains in the book, "but white wine vinegar makes a very good substitute." She also notes that not all cooks add mustard or bouillon powder, but she likes the flavor they add. That's another thing I love about "Latinísimo" - many of the recipes include variations or suggested substitutions, so a cook can adapt recipes to their own tastes and preferences.

The last bit of advice from Gutierrez is about how to serve Pollo en Coco: "I've always had this stew served in deep bowls over cooked rice, with plenty of French bread to sop up the abundant sauce." And that's how we ate it that day in her dining area, steps from the stove, surrounded by cookbooks, in deep conversation about her life's work.

POLLO EN COCO

4-6 servings

Total time: 45 mins, plus 15 mins marinating time

This easy and flavorful stew of chicken simmered in a coconut milk sauce, seasoned with onions, garlic, tomatoes, bell peppers and mustard, is made in several Latin American countries, especially those where coconut palms thrive. The recipe is adapted from author and culinary historian Sandra A. Gutierrez's cookbook "Latinísimo." Like all stews, it's even better the next day. Serve it over rice, with plenty of cilantro on top.

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.

INGREDIENTS

• 6 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (1 1/4 pounds total)
• 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
• 2 teaspoons whole-grain mustard
• 1 teaspoon chicken bouillon or consomme powder
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons coconut or vegetable oil, divided
• 1 medium yellow or white onion (8 ounces), diced
• 1 large bell pepper (6 ounces), any color, stemmed, seeded and diced
• 1 cup chopped fresh plum tomatoes
• 2 cloves garlic, minced or finely grated 1 (13.5-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk
• Steamed rice, for serving
• 1/2 bunch (1 ounce) chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems (optional)

STEPS

In a medium bowl, season the chicken thighs with the vinegar, mustard, bouillon or consommé powder (if using), salt and pepper, tossing to coat the pieces well. Let marinate at room temperature for 15 minutes.

In a medium pot over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil until it shimmers. Add the onions, bell peppers, tomatoes and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are no longer juicy, 6 to 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to a bowl.

To the same pot, add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil and the chicken. Cook the chicken, turning the pieces every couple of minutes, until golden all over, about 6 minutes. (The chicken will not be cooked through at this point.) Add the coconut milk and the reserved vegetables, and stir well, making sure to scrape up the brown bits at the bottom of the pot.

Bring the stew to a simmer, cover and decrease the heat to low or until the liquid is at a slow simmer. Braise the chicken for 15 minutes, or until the internal temperature of the thigh registers 165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Uncover, increase the heat to medium, and bring the liquid to a boil. Continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and serve hot, family-style, with rice and cilantro on the side, if desired.

Nutrition per serving (1 1/3 cups chicken and sauce), based on 6: 331 calories, 9g carbohydrates, 83mg cholesterol, 26g fat, 2g fiber, 20g protein, 19g saturated fat, 295mg sodium, 4g sugar

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