Rey Lopez; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post
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( Buy the book in hardcover at a 40% discount! by clicking here or order in KINDLE edition at a 57% discount by clicking here. Sales help fund JWR.)
As with most chefs, his culinary point of view is formed based on where he's lived. Kung grew up going back and forth between Hong Kong and Toronto, where he enjoyed a mix of Cantonese home cooking and what he described as the typical North American food experience, which included grilled cheese sandwiches served with canned cream of chicken soup. For about the past two decades, he has been based in Detroit. “I would describe my culinary style as American Chinese, or third-culture Chinese, and really what does that mean but to celebrate my own expression of cultural diversity where I live now?” he wrote in the book's introduction.
Third-culture cuisine is “a fusion cuisine that is informed by the lived experience,” Kung said in a phone interview. “Instead of dabbling in one culture with a base from another, it's pretty much living between both of them and possessing the nuance and understanding and appreciation of a local, of a native.” When he initially rose to fame on TikTok, he faced criticism from viewers who questioned the authenticity of his versions of recipes.
He never backed down, often directly addressing the issue in his videos alongside topics of gatekeeping and cultural appropriation. “By fully embracing this as what my identity is and what I identify as, it has literally erased any of those comments and criticisms that people have normally been so comfortable throwing at me,” he said. “I think when you own something so freely, nobody can really question the truth behind it anymore.”
And now Kung's audience has embraced his third-culture cookbook with open arms. “Like every week, somebody is making that [dan dan] lasagna, and it makes me very happy.”
In deciding what recipes to include in this book, Kung said, “a lot of what I was trying to do involved just following Chinese migration, whether it had been willing or unwilling.” And as people move, they take their style of cooking with them, but often have to reimagine it with a different set of available ingredients or, in the case of entrepreneurs, to suit a new customer palate.
Through his research, he learned about the history of Chinese people in the Caribbean and how thousands were brought to the region as indentured laborers during the 19th century, particularly after slavery was abolished in the British Caribbean in 1834. “This steady influx led to the development of Caribbean Chinese cuisine, which blends West Indian flavors with the (mainly) Cantonese palate and cooking techniques,” Kung wrote. “Jerk chow mein is one of the staples of this cuisine.”
His version of the dish starts by making a jerk paste with scallions, garlic, Scotch bonnet or habanero peppers, ginger, and a slew of seasonings, similar to what you might use to marinate jerk chicken. Then you simply stir fry it with chow mein noodles, tofu and snow peas - or whatever protein or vegetables you want - and it's ready to be savored.
The chiles give the dish a scalp-tingling level of spice that made me pause briefly - and then go right back for another bite, which is exactly what any true spicy food lover wants. If you love Caribbean food and noodles, then this Jerk Chow Mein With Tofu recipe is one for you. However, a word of caution: This dish is not for the faint of heart - or tongue. But, as Kung said, “The best things in life challenge us.”
Jerk Chow Mein With Tofu
This jerk chow mein with tofu and snow peas has a scalp-tingling level of spice that begs you to take another bite. It is a staple of Caribbean Chinese cuisine, which formed due to the Chinese indentured laborers brought to the region starting in the mid-1850s. “This steady influx led to the development of Caribbean Chinese cuisine, which blends West Indian flavors with the (mainly) Cantonese palate and cooking techniques,” chef and social media personality Jon Kung wrote in his debut cookbook, “Kung Food.”
( Buy the book in hardcover at a 40% discount! by clicking here or order in KINDLE edition at a 57% discount by clicking here. Sales help fund JWR.)
Make ahead: The jerk paste can be made up to 1 day in advance.
Storage note: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.
Where to buy: Chow mein noodles are available at well-stocked supermarkets, Asian markets and online.
NOTE: Do not use the crunchy chow mein noodles often sold in canisters.
TIME: 35 mins
MAKES: 4 to 6 (about 10 cups)
INGREDIENTS
• 2 bunches scallions (6 ounces total), chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled
• 2 Scotch bonnet or habanero peppers, stemmed and seeded
• 1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
• 2 tablespoons sweet paprika
• 1 tablespoon light brown sugar
• 2 teaspoons ground allspice
• 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon ground or freshly grated nutmeg
• 12 ounces chow mein noodles or dried thin egg noodles (see Notes)
• 3 tablespoons vegetable, grapeseed or other neutral oil
• 1 (14-ounce) package firm or extra-firm tofu, drained, cut into bite-size pieces and patted dry
• 8 ounces snow peas
DIRECTIONS
In a food processor, combine the scallions, garlic, Scotch bonnet or habanero peppers, ginger, paprika, brown sugar, allspice, thyme, salt, black pepper and nutmeg and process, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice, until a paste forms, about 1 minute. Set the jerk paste aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook according to the package directions until al dente, about 3 minutes. Drain, rinse and set aside.
In a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the tofu and snow peas and stir-fry until the tofu and vegetables start to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the noodles and jerk paste, and toss until everything is evenly coated, about 2 minutes. Serve hot. Substitutions:
Want less spice? Use only 1 Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper, or milder peppers, such as serranos.
If you can't find chow mein noodles, use any long pasta or noodles.
Instead of snow peas, try broccoli, cauliflower or baby bok choy.
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