Goran Kosanovic for The Washington Post
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When the organizers of a vegan macaroni-and-cheese contest in Baltimore sent instructions to contestants, they suggested bringing enough samples to feed a crowd of 500 people. Instead, "we stopped counting at 1,000," said Rissa Miller, who helps organize social events for a group called Baltimore Vegan Drinks. "Nobody expected that many people to show up."
One of the Baltimore Vegan Mac 'n' Cheese Smackdown's other organizers, Brenda Sanders from PEP Foods, was also floored by the droves who showed up to sample vegan cheesy goodness from 31 home cooks and professional chefs, yet she acknowledges the allure. "Who can resist mac 'n' cheese?" she says. "We picked it as the theme for the event because we knew it would attract a crowd."
Indeed, macaroni and cheese is one of those dishes often cited by the newly vegan as one they particularly miss, especially when vegan offerings on restaurant menus tend toward hummus wraps and black bean burgers - not what most Americans would classify as comfort food.
When Miller became vegan 21 years ago, "the idea of eating a vegan version of mac and cheese didn't even occur to me," she says. "There was no Daiya vegan cheese yet, and cashew cream wasn't even fashionable."
The recent proliferation of commercially available vegan cheeses has opened up a new world of possibility for those who eschew dairy products, inspiring a host of home cooks to try their hands at re-creating cheesy childhood memories. Even a popular BuzzFeed recipe video has gotten in on the act, whizzing boiled carrots, onions and potatoes in a blender with raw cashews to create a creamy, cheeselike sauce.
"For some bizarre reason, many vegans are obsessed with mac and cheese, and apparently I am no exception," says Jeanie Ciskowski of Accokeek, Md., who ended up winning the People's Choice award at the Baltimore event for her entry called Flying Pig Labs Mac 'n' Cheese, which combined her own handmade cheddar-style cashew cheese with commercially available vegan cheeses.
When Ciskowski decided to enter, she expected that she would sample the other entries and try to pry the winning recipe from its creator. Instead, she found her own concoction at the top of the heap. "I had no idea how much fun I'd have being on my feet half the day, feeding an endless line of mac-and-cheese-crazed vegans," she says.
Not only vegans, actually. The organizers say the crowd included plenty of people who regularly eat dairy, yet are still interested in plant-based cuisine. "People were so amazed that these mac-and-cheese products were vegan, that there was no dairy in them at all," says Miller.
It's a trend that Chloe Coscarelli, co-founder and executive chef of By Chloe, a vegan restaurant in New York City's Greenwich Village that opened less than a year ago, has incorporated into her own brand, focusing on plant-based food that appeals to the masses, such as her wildly popular Sweet Potato Mac 'n' Cheese.
"We spent two years testing recipes for the By Chloe menu," says Coscarelli, "and the mac and cheese was a huge part of that. If someone's initial response during recipe testing was 'It tastes good for being vegan,' then it was back to the drawing board."
Coscarelli's own take on a plant-based mac and cheese - or what some jokingly call "mac and trees" - puts the emphasis firmly on the plants themselves, using mashed sweet potatoes mixed with almond milk to create a slightly sweet sauce reminiscent of the commercial boxed products often found on the plates of both toddlers and college students. The addition of crispy, salted shiitake "bacon" takes the dish to the next level, in Coscarelli's estimation, along with the almond "Parmesan," made from ground, toasted almonds. "Like many dishes," she says, "the key to extraordinary mac and cheese is all about the layering of flavor and texture."
At Annie's Homegrown, co-founders Annie Withey and Andrew Martin began the company in 1989 specifically to create healthful, dairy-based boxed macaroni-and-cheese products but received requests for many years for a vegan version, which was introduced in 2015.
As with Coscarelli's recipe, Annie's Organic Vegan Shells & Creamy Sauce incorporates sweet potato, combining it with pumpkin to get the flavor and color they wanted. "When it came to our vegan product development process, we decided to take a new veggie-forward approach," says Christina McCalla, brand manager for Annie's Macaroni and Cheese. "That's why we chose pumpkin and sweet potato powders as the first ingredients after organic pasta."
Seeing a creamy sauce as the key to success, Annie's looked for combinations that would provide the buttery mouth feel that could help a vegan version compete - or at least peacefully coexist - with traditional dairy-based options.
Although it's true that flavor is a major element when it comes to creating a plant-based macaroni and cheese, texture is often the make-or-break factor for anyone with a strong food memory about cheese, like District resident Erin Longbottom, who switched from a vegetarian diet to a vegan one two years ago. Her Vegan Chili Mac recipe, which took second place at the Baltimore smackdown event, definitely highlights texture. Longbottom adapted some vegan cheese recipes that she found online into a concoction akin to nacho cheese sauce.
CHLOE'S VEGAN SWEET POTATO MAC 'N' CHEESE
MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
Here, the sweet potato provides color and texture, while garlic and fresh rosemary help balance the sweetness.
The recipe includes two optional toppings: the crunch of toasted and salted ground almonds, and crisped shiitake mushrooms.
MAKE AHEAD: The almond Parmesan topping can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 month.
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Ingredients
For the optional almond Parmesan topping
• 1/2 cup sliced almonds
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
For the optional shiitake bacon topping
• 3 3/4 ounces (about 2 cups) shiitake mushrooms, trimmed and thinly sliced (about 1/4-inch thick)
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
For the mac 'n' cheese
• 2 teaspoons sea salt, plus more for the pasta cooking water
• 1 pound dried elbow macaroni or similar pasta shape, such as cavatappi
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/3 cup flour
• 1 cup cooked, peeled and mashed sweet potato (about 1 medium peeled sweet potato)
• 3 1/2 cups unsweetened almond or soy milk
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice
• 2 to 3 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
Steps
For the optional almond Parmesan topping: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Spread the sliced almonds on the baking sheet. Toast in the oven for about 5 minutes or until lightly golden brown. Immediately transfer to a food processor and add the salt; process until finely ground. The yield is about 1/2 cup, enough for about 15 servings.
For the optional shiitake bacon topping: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Toss the mushrooms with the oil, sea salt and pepper on a large rimmed baking sheet. Roast for about 30 minutes or until browned and crisp, using a spatula to turn them once or twice, as needed. The yield is about 1/3 cup, enough for 4 to 6 servings.
For the mac 'n' cheese: Bring a large pot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add a generous pinch of salt and then the macaroni; cook according to the package directions, then rinse with cold water and drain.
Whisk together the oil and flour in a medium saucepan over medium heat; cook for 3 to 5 minutes, then whisk in the mashed sweet potato, almond or soy milk, the 2 teaspoons of sea salt, the garlic, mustard, soy sauce and lime juice. Once the mixture starts to bubble, reduce the heat to low; cook until the sauce thickens, whisking as needed so it's mostly smooth (but don't worry if some sweet potato pulp remains). Add the sauce and rosemary (to taste) to the pasta, and toss to coat.
Taste, and adjust the seasoning as needed. Divide among individual bowls; if using one or both, top each portion with a tablespoon of the almond Parmesan and several pieces of the shiitake bacon. Serve warm.
Nutrition | Per serving (based on 6, using almond milk): 450 calories, 12 g protein, 77 g carbohydrates, 10 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 850 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fiber, 6 g sugar
VEGAN WHITE CHEDDAR CASHEW CHEESE
MAKES: 8 servings (makes about 1 pound)
When Accokeek, Md., resident Jeanie Ciskowski decided to enter the 2016 Vegan Mac 'n' Cheese Smackdown in Baltimore, she tried commercial versions of vegan sharp cheddar cheese for her homemade mac 'n' cheese but didn't find them sharp enough for her taste.
A cultured probiotic liquid made from sprouted grains, the starter for Ciskowski's vegan cheese contains active enzymes that make it a good substitute for rennet when making vegan cheese. It is easy to make, but plan on making it up to 5 days in advance of starting a vegan cheese recipe, because it needs to cure to acquire its sharp flavor.
You'll need a sterilized Mason jar with new lid and ring, and a 6-inch square of doubled cheesecloth.
Nutritional yeast is used to enhance the flavor and boost the nutrition in vegetarian and vegan dishes. It tastes a little cheesy and is available at health food stores and at Whole Foods Markets.
MAKE AHEAD: The vegan cheese starter can be refrigerated for up to 1 week; once it smells sour, it can no longer be used.
Ingredients
For the vegan cheese starter
• 1/4 cup soft white wheat berries
• Several cups filtered or spring water (do not use tap water) For the white cheddar cashew cheese
• 1 1/2 cups raw cashews
• 1/3 cup liquefied coconut oil
• 1 1/2 tablespoons nutritional yeast (see headnote)
• 2 tablespoons white miso
• 1 teaspoon onion powder
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon powdered mustard
Steps
For the vegan cheese starter: Place the wheat berries in the Mason jar and cover the top with the cheesecloth, then secure it with the ring. (A rubber band will work instead of the ring.) Pour the filtered or spring water into the jar, enough to cover the berries; drain, then repeat two more times.
After draining out the water the third time, turn the jar on its side and shake to distribute the wheat berries along the length of the jar. Place the jar in indirect sunlight. Rinse and repeat a few times each day until you see little tails coming out of the berries, which will take from 1 to 3 days.
Rinse one more time, then add 1 1/2 cups of the filtered or spring water to the jar, keeping it covered with the cheesecloth and ring. Leave the jar out of direct sunlight for 1 to 3 more days until bubbles begin to rise from the bottom of the jar and cover the surface of the water. Taste the water; it should taste a little lemony and musty.
Drain the vegan cheese starter water into a clean container, discarding the sprouted berries, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. The yield is about 1 1/2 cups; reserve 1/4 cup to make the white cheddar cashew cheese.
For the white cheddar cashew cheese: Soak the cashews in enough water to cover for a minimum of 8 hours in the refrigerator. Drain the cashews and discard the soaking water.
Combine the 1/4 cup of the vegan cheese starter, the raw cashews, coconut oil, nutritional yeast, miso, onion powder, salt and powdered mustard in a high-powered blender such as a Vitamix, or in a food processor. Puree for several minutes, until smooth, stopping to scrape down the sides as needed.
Transfer to a container, cover and store at room temperature away from direct sunlight for 36 to 48 hours; because gas is released as it cultures, the mixture will rise slightly and create a more airy texture. Taste occasionally, and stop it at the sharpness you prefer. When it tastes like cheese, mix it up to remove the gases and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. It will firm up as it chills.
Nutrition | Per 2-ounce serving (using kosher salt): 220 calories, 5 g protein, 9 g carbohydrates, 20 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 210 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugar
FLYING PIG LABS
MAKES: 9 servings ( 9 cups)
Vegan Mac 'n' Cheese
This dish won the People's Choice award at the 2016 Vegan Mac 'n' Cheese Smackdown in Baltimore; the creator of the recipe, Jeanie Ciskowski, wanted to make a decadent and creamy macaroni and cheese that could satisfy vegans and non-vegans alike. (Flying Pig Labs was the name of her competition team.)
Her homemade Vegan White Cheddar Cashew cheese (see accompanying recipe) adds sharpness to the sauce, while the commercial Daiya cheeses provide an extra gooey texture. Because the vegan cheeses and Earth Balance butter substitute all contain salt, some cooks may want to omit the vegetable bouillon base.
Nutritional yeast is used to enhance the flavor and boost the nutrition in vegetarian and vegan dishes. It tastes a little cheesy and is available at health food stores and at Whole Foods Markets.
Ingredients
For the mac 'n' cheese
• 1 teaspoon olive oil, plus more for the baking dish
• 1 medium onion, chopped (1 cup)
• 3/4 cup (160 grams) Vegan White Cheddar Cashew cheese or other sharp cultured cashew cheese (see accompanying recipe)
• 4 cups unsweetened almond milk (may substitute another nondairy milk)
• 4 ounces Daiya Cheddar Cheese
• 4 ounces Daiya Mozzarella Cheese
• 6 tablespoons Earth Balance butter substitute
• 3 tablespoons Veggie Parmesan cheese
• 2 tablespoons nutritional yeast (see headnote)
• 2 tablespoons roasted garlic (or omit and add a bit more garlic powder; see NOTE)
• 2 tablespoons bouillon vegetable base (optional)
• 1 1/2 teaspoons onion powder
• 1 1/2 teaspoons powdered mustard
• 1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic powder
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 4 cups (13 ounces) dried whole-wheat penne
For the topping
• 1 1/2 tablespoons Earth Balance butter substitute
• 1 1/2 cups panko bread crumbs
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
• 1 tablespoon Veggie Parmesan cheese (optional)
Steps
For the mac 'n' cheese: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Have an 8-inch-square baking dish (or its volume equivalent in individual ramekins) at hand.
Heat the oil in a saute pan over medium-low heat. Stir in the onion and cook for about 5 minutes until soft and translucent, then remove from the heat.
Combine 1/4 cup of the Vegan White Cheddar Cashew Cheese, the almond milk, Daiya Cheddar Cheese, Daiya Mozzarella Cheese, butter substitute, Veggie Parmesan cheese, nutritional yeast, roasted garlic, vegetable broth base, if using, onion powder, powdered mustard, sweet paprika, cayenne pepper, garlic powder and black pepper in a blender; puree to form a smooth sauce.
Use a little oil to grease the baking dish. Add the onion and dried penne to the dish, then pour in most of the sauce and stir to incorporate. Cover tightly with aluminum foil; bake for 20 minutes, then remove from oven and stir. Top with the remaining sauce. Re-cover and return to the oven; bake for 15 minutes.
Check the pasta for doneness; stir and return to oven again until done to your preference, as needed. The sauce will thicken as it cools.
While the mac 'n' cheese is in the oven, make the crumb topping: Melt the butter substitute in a small skillet over medium heat. Stir in the bread crumbs and toast until lightly browned, stirring frequently.
Quickly toss in the basil and Veggie Parmesan, if using, then remove from the heat.
Top the mac 'n' cheese with the toasted bread crumbs before serving.
NOTE: To roast garlic, cut off just enough of the top from 1 head of garlic so the cloves are slightly exposed. Drizzle with a little olive oil and wrap in aluminum foil. Roast in a 375-degree oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until softened. Unwrap and cool till it can be handled, then squeeze out the roasted cloves.
Nutrition | Per serving: 470 calories, 11 g protein, 54 g carbohydrates, 24 g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 470 mg sodium, 6 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugar
CHLOE'S VEGAN SWEET POTATO MAC 'N' CHEESE
MAKES: 14 servings (makes 14 cups)
This recipe, an entry in the 2016 Vegan Mac 'n' Cheese Smackdown in Baltimore, relies on a super-gooey cheese sauce that satisfies those who like both nachos and macaroni and cheese. It's mixed with chili, which helps the sauce spread out to be a little less stretchy.
Full-fat coconut milk will work here, but because it is a little more oily and has a more pronounced coconut flavor than low-fat coconut milk, the latter is preferable.
Nutritional yeast is used to enhance the flavor and boost the nutrition in vegetarian and vegan dishes. It tastes a little cheesy and is available at health food stores and at Whole Foods Markets.
MAKE AHEAD: The raw cashews need to be soaked for 8 hours or boiled for 10 minutes.
Ingredients
• 1/2 cup raw cashews
• 1 cup warm tap water
• 1 cup warmed low-fat coconut milk (see headnote)
• 1/3 cup tapioca starch
• 1/3 cup nutritional yeast (see headnote)
• 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon white or brown miso paste
• 2 teaspoons maple syrup
• 1 teaspoon onion powder
• 1 teaspoon granulated garlic powder
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt, or more as needed
• 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 pound dried macaroni , just-cooked or reheated (8 cups)
• 3 cups of your favorite vegan chili, warmed
Steps
Soften the cashews either by covering them in water in a bowl and soaking them for 8 hours (at room temperature) or by cooking them in a pot of boiling water for 10 minutes. Drain.
Transfer the cashews to a blender along with the warm tap water, warm coconut milk, tapioca starch, nutritional yeast, lemon juice, miso, maple syrup, onion and garlic powders, the teaspoon of kosher salt and the ground turmeric. Puree for several minutes on high speed, until smooth.
Pour that blended mixture into a medium saucepan; cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, for 5 to 10 minutes or until it thickens into a sauce. Note: The sauce goes from thickened to a gooey mass of cheese rather quickly, so remove from the heat promptly.
Combine the sauce with the hot macaroni until evenly coated, then mix in the vegan chili until well incorporated. Taste, and add salt as needed.
Serve right away.
Nutrition | Per serving (without chili): 180 calories, 6 g protein, 31 g carbohydrates, 4 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 200 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugar