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April 28th, 2024

The Kosher Gourmet

Seriously Simple: Classic Spanish cold, creamy soup triples as a soup, dip or sauce

Diane Rossen Worthington

By Diane Rossen Worthington

Published August 18, 2020

Seriously Simple: Classic Spanish cold, creamy soup triples as a soup, dip or sauce
Years ago, I visited the ancient city of Cordoba, Spain. It was once the most populous city in the world and the intellectual center of Europe in the 10th century.

Cordoba was famous for salmorejo, a cousin of gazpacho that can best be described as a cold, no-cook tomato soup that has the flavor of gazpacho and the texture of vichyssoise (but a bit thicker).

Cordoba natives are so proud of their soup that they even have a Brotherhood of Salmorejo. I met the president of their group, who is serious about fostering worldwide interest in this classic recipe. He even gave me a pin to wear to spread the "salmorejo" word. My guide explained that Cordoba is one of the hottest European cities in the summer. They make large batches of the soup and keep it refrigerated to enjoy all season. It also is budget-friendly, which is a bonus during these tough economic times.

My reinterpretation of salmorejo includes very ripe tomatoes, Persian or European cucumbers, sherry vinegar, garlic, day-old bread and extra-virgin Spanish olive oil.

My guests are always surprised that this is a non-dairy soup. But it is so creamy from blending the ingredients together that it tastes as if cream was added. One tip for the best results is to use a high-powered blender, which helps emulsify the ingredients into this tomato bliss.

Make up a double batch of this for a few days when it is just too hot to cook. Serve as a soup along with big chunks of crusty bread and a salad of your choice. I always hold a little bit of this soup back so I can serve it as a dip with thin slices of French bread or a tray of colorful vegetables. Or as a complementary cold sauce to simple grilled entrees.



SALMOREJO

SERVES 4 to 6

6 medium ripe tomatoes, (about 3 pounds), coarsely chopped

3 medium Persian cucumbers, coarsely chopped or 1/2 European cucumber, coarsely chopped

3 cloves garlic

1/4 cup sherry vinegar, Spanish preferred

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, preferably Spanish

2 teaspoons salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 cups packed day-old French or sourdough bread cut into 2-inch bread cubes

2 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped

2 ounces pastrami, shredded

1. Combine all of the ingredients in a large bowl. Mix the ingredients around so that the bread has a chance to soak up the liquids. Let rest for about 15 minutes or until the bread is softened.

2. Puree the soup in batches. If your blender doesn’t totally puree the soup, you can pass it through a food mill for a smoother texture. Transfer to a bowl in batches and when all has been pureed taste for seasoning.

3. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to two days ahead of serving. Season to taste just before serving.

4. To serve, ladle soup in soup bowls and garnish with the chopped egg and pastrami. Serve immediately.

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Diane Rossen Worthington is an authority on new American cooking. She is the author of 18 cookbooks, including "Seriously Simple Holidays," and also a James Beard award-winning radio show host.