Comfort food with an international accent: Rosti, the Swiss equivalent of latkes, are lacy-crisp on their outer edges, but wonderfully soft inside

Ask a dozen people what their ultimate comfort food is, and you'll get a dozen different answers. For me, the answer would change depending on season and mood, but it would often involve potatoes.

(One day, perhaps, I'll find non-carby things comforting, but not today.)

I boil and bake and roast them (sometimes in combination), and, of course, I pan-fry them. I cube them to make hash browns, I grate them for latkes. Or I'll treat the latter a little differently and make rosti, which is basically the Swiss equivalent of latkes.

Rosti isn't quite all about the crunch the way great latkes are (or should be, IMO); these potato cakes - mixed with parsley and lots of soft onions - get touches of lacy-crispness on their outer edges, but are wonderfully soft inside.

To make a meal of them? Spoon sauteed mushrooms over a couple rosti, top with a poached egg, and get comfortable.

ROSTI WITH MUSHROOMS

MAKES: 6 servings

MAKE AHEAD: The formed potato patties can be refrigerated for up to 3 days before frying.

Adapted from "The Meat Free Monday Cookbook," edited by Annie Rigg

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Ingredients

• 5 medium potatoes (about 2 pounds), peeled

• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

• 2 medium-to-large onions, finely chopped (about 3 cups)

• 3/4 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper, plus more as needed

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 2 pounds cremini or button mushrooms trimmed and sliced

• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

• 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

• 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar

• 6 large eggs

• Chopped fresh chives, for garnish

Steps

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place the potatoes in a large pot of salted water over high heat; once the water comes to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and cook for 15 minutes or just until a skewer goes partly in but the potato still resists in the center (par-cooked). Drain and let cool.

While the potatoes are cooking, heat the butter and 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until they are soft and starting to brown at the edges, about 10 minutes. Stir in 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper, then scrape the onions into a mixing bowl.

Once the potatoes are cool enough to handle, use the large-holed side of a box grater to coarsely grate them into the bowl with the onions. Add the parsley, 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper and use your hands to combine. Taste, and add salt and pepper as needed. Shape into 12 patties and flatten slightly.

Wipe out the skillet and return it to medium heat. Pour in 1 tablespoon of the oil. Working in batches to avoid overcrowding, pan-fry the rosti until golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes per side. (Add more oil to the pan between batches as needed.) Transfer to a baking sheet and keep the fried rosti warm in the oven until ready to serve.

Wipe out the skillet again and place it over high heat. Pour in the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Add the mushrooms, garlic and thyme; cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms exude their liquid and then start to lightly brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt and 1/4 teaspoon of pepper; taste, and add more if needed.

Wipe out the skillet again, then fill it with 2 to 3 inches of water. Add the vinegar. Bring it to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium or medium-low, so the water is gently bubbling. Working with one at a time, crack an egg into a measuring cup. Use a whisk to swirl the water, then quickly tip the egg into the vortex of water. Repeat with no more than 2 other eggs in the pan to avoid overcrowding. Poach the eggs until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny, about 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining eggs.

To serve, set 2 rosti on each serving plate. Divide the mushrooms among the plates, and top each portion with a poached egg. Sprinkle with chives and serve right away.

Nutrition | Per serving (using 3 tablespoons oil): 340 calories, 15 g protein, 41 g carbohydrates, 14 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 190 mg cholesterol, 270 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 7 g sugar