Nippy night? An unexpected surprise to your comforting bowl of potato leek soup

As the weather starts to turn nippy at night, signaling summer has left us, I like to prepare a comforting bowl of soup.

Potato leek soup is a European classic served from France to Sweden to Scotland and Wales. It's usually just a simple puree, and I've enjoyed it with many variations, but without a doubt my favorite is a recipe that adds fennel.

Fennel is a bulb that has a delicate anise (licorice) flavor. A member of the carrot family, fennel is easy to slice with a sharp knife and has a crisp texture similar to celery. It is wonderful in salads, shredded and dressed with an assertive vinaigrette. When fennel is sauteed it takes on a sweet flavor and becomes very tender. And as an extra bonus it's low in calories and high in vitamin C and potassium. You'll also notice that there is no cream in the soup, since the potatoes add a rich, creamy flavor. A good choice for vegans, if you also want to sub vegan butter.

Fresh fennel is available in most produce sections from October to March. I've been making this recipe for decades, and it never gets old.

Fennel needs to be cored and then sliced. Don't forget to save some of the fennel sprigs for garnishing. A beautiful presentation, the light, green-colored soup is sprinkled with bright green fennel sprigs on top. If you love anise flavor, add Pernod so the fennel flavor will be pronounced.

While you can use baking Idaho baking potatoes, I like the creaminess of yellow potatoes. You can serve this as a first course in smaller portions or as your main course with some crusty whole wheat bread. If you want to "fancy it up," garnish with crispy onion pieces. To drink: Serve a California chardonnay or fresh cider (the alcoholic version).

Fennel, Potato and Leek Soup

SERVES 6 to 8

• 2 fennel bulbs with 2 inches stalk (about 1 pound)
• 2 medium baking or yellow potatoes (about 1 pound)
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 2 medium leeks, white part only, cleaned and coarsely chopped
• 2 quarts vegetable stock
• Salt and white pepper
• 2 teaspoons Pernod (optional)

1. Use a sharp knife to remove core from fennel and slice it. Reserve some sprigs for garnish. Peel potatoes and chop coarsely.

2. In a medium soup pot, heat butter and oil over medium heat. Add leeks and saute, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add fennel and potatoes and continue sauteing for 10 more minutes or until softened.

3. Add stock and bring to simmer on high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, partially cover and cook 30 minutes.

4. Puree soup in a food processor or in a blender and return to pot OR in the pot with a hand blender. Add salt, pepper and Pernod, if desired. Taste for seasoning.

5. Ladle into soup bowls and decorate with fennel sprigs or any other garnish that suits you.

Advance preparation: The soup may be kept in the refrigerator up to three days.

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