A Persian Feast for Purim! (We stopped at 4 recipes)

The story of Purim, which celebrates the Jews' narrow escape from mass annihilation and is recounted in the Book of Esther, takes place in the ancient Persian empire.

The holiday is celebrated with festive dinners, Purim shpiels (plays) and dress-up parades and/or parties where you might be expected to drink as much liquior as you can hold. And though most people know only of hamantaschen - triangular filled cookies - as the food directly linked to Purim, the dishes eaten for the holiday are rich and varied, depending on geography.

The holiday falls midweek this year, on the night of March 20, and to honor its origin, I set out to create a dinner menu that draws on Persian flavors and ingredients. I also wanted to imbue the dishes with celebratory symbolism.

For the main course, I went with a roast chicken, glazed with pomegranate molasses and saffron, which makes for a beautiful and delicious main course.

Jeweled Rice, presented on large platters at the most festive occasions in Persian culture, is an ideal accompaniment to the roasted, glazed chicken and a perfect fit for royalty, such as Queen Esther.

The rice, which does take some time despite being pretty straightforward to make, is visually stunning - studded with barberries and dried apricots and garnished with almonds and pistachios.

Speaking of green-tinted nuts, they landed the leading role in my Persian-inspired hamantaschen recipe.

Instead of the typical poppy seed filling, here the three-sided cookies contain a not-too-sweet mixture of ground pistachios, cardamom, orange zest and a touch of rosewater. I have calibrated the amount of the latter ingredient so that it highlights the floral notes of pistachios, instead of turning the cookie into a heavily perfumed confection. But if you are sensitive to its flavor, add half the amount, and taste before adding the rest.

A bit of advance cooking will simplify tremendously preparations for the midweek holiday. Here's a plan:

• Both the rice and the hamantaschen can be made over the weekend. Garnish the rice - which can be served slightly warmed up (do add a bit of water so the rice steams instead of just drying out) or at room temperature - right before serving.

• - Make the soup on Tuesday night, as its flavors will meld and surely improve; just add the noodles during reheating.

• Season the chicken that same night, and make the glaze the next day while you wait for the chicken to come to room temperature.

PERSIAN NOODLE SOUP (Ashe-Reshteh)

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings ( 15 cups)

Noodles, which are said to bring good luck in Iranian tradition, are often eaten around Nowruz (the New Year), and it's only fitting that celebrating the good luck of Purim's outcome is accompanied by this hearty noodle soup.

Dried reshteh, or Persian wheat noodles, are available at Mediterranean markets.

MAKE AHEAD: The soup's flavor improves with a day or two of refrigeration.

Ingredients

• 2 large yellow onions
  
• 7 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil
  
• 4 large garlic cloves, grated
  
• 15 1/2 ounces cooked brown/green lentils (rinsed and drained, if using canned/no-salt added)
  
• One 15.5-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed and drained (no-salt added)
  
• One 15.5-ounce can kidney beans, rinsed and drained (no-salt added)
  
• One 15.5-ounce can navy beans, rinsed and drained (no-salt added)
  
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
  
• About 1 ounce fresh dill, finely chopped (1/2 cup)
  
• About 1 ounce fresh mint leaves, finely chopped (1/2 cup)
  
• 3 quarts vegetable broth or water
  
• Kosher salt
  
• 6 ounces dried Persian reshteh or linguine noodles, broken in half
  
• About 3 ounces baby spinach or sorrel leaves (4 packed cups)
  
• 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice, plus more as needed (from 1 large lemon)
  
• 1 cup plain, (vegan) full-fat Greek yogurt, for garnish, plus more as needed

Steps

Cut one of the onions into small dice.

Heat 4 tablespoons of the oil until shimmering in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook for 7 to 9 minutes, stirring a few times, until it just begins to pick up color, then add the garlic, stirring until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the lentils, chickpeas, kidney and navy beans, as well as the turmeric, half the dill and half the mint. Add the broth or water and bring the mixture to a lively simmer. Season lightly with salt, then reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for about 1 hour, to let the flavors meld.

Meanwhile, halve the remaining onion, then thinly slice crosswise into half moons.

Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil until shimmering in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the onion is golden. Add a generous pinch of salt, stirring to incorporate. Reduce the heat to low; cook for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring now and again, until it is a deep reddish brown. Remove from the heat; stir in the remaining dill and mint. Taste, and adjust seasonings as needed.

About 10 minutes before serving, stir the noodles and spinach into the soup pot; cook, stirring now and again so the noodles don't stick together. Taste and adjust seasonings, if needed. When the noodles are tender, remove the soup from the heat. Stir in the lemon juice, then taste and add more, as needed.

Ladle the soup into bowls. Serve hot, with a generous dollop of yogurt and a dollop of the caramelized onion-herb mixture.

Nutrition | Per serving (based on 8, using broth and no-salt-added beans): 430 calories, 17 g protein, 61 g carbohydrates, 14 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1,700 mg sodium, 13 g dietary fiber, 8 g sugar

JEWELED RICE (Javaher Polow)

MAKES: 8 servings (makes about 6 1/2 cups, including the tahdig)

Served on most festive occasions, such as weddings, this saffron-infused rice dish, decorated with bright barberries, golden raisins and sweet apricots, is fit for royalty like Purim's Queen Esther. While this dish is time-consuming, it isn't complicated, and the result is so visually stunning and delicious that the effort is well worth it.

Dried barberries must be rinsed clean of grit; this will take about 30 minutes. Dried, unsweetened sour cherries may be substituted, which do not need advance prep. The barberries can be purchased at Middle Eastern markets or online.

Ingredients

• 3 cups raw white basmati rice
  
• 1 teaspoon ground cardamom
  
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
  
• 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
  
• 9 cups water
  
• 2 large oranges, preferably organic
  
• 2 large carrots, peeled and cut into thin strips
  
• 1/2 cup sugar
  
• 8 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil
  
• 2 large yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced
  
• 2 tablespoons kosher salt, or more as needed
  
• About 1 ounce whole dried barberries or chopped, unsweetened dried sour cherries (about 1/2 cup)
  
• About 1 ounce minced, dried apricots (1/4 cup)
  
• About 1 ounce golden raisins (1/4 cup)
  
• 2 tablespoons plain yogurt
  
• 1 teaspoon ground saffron dissolved in 1/4 cup hot water
  
• About 1 1/4 ounces sliced raw almonds (1/4 cup)
  
• About 1 1/4 ounces shelled, chopped raw pistachios (1/4 cup)

Steps

Wash/rinse the rice in a large bowl of cold water, swishing it around with your hand. Let the rice settle, then drain, and repeat four more times or until the water runs clear. Reserve. (While you're washing the rice, you can do the next few steps.)

Stir together the cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, pepper, cloves and turmeric in a small bowl.

Bring the 2 cups of water to a boil in a small pot over high heat. Meanwhile, use a vegetable peeler to remove wide strips of the orange peel from the fruit (including a little of the white pith is okay). Slice the strips crosswise into very thin slices and drop them into the boiling water for 1 minute. Drain and rinse the peel (reserving the 2 cups of blanching water), then return just the peel to the saucepan. Add the carrot strips, sugar and 1 cup water; once the pot returns to a boil, cook (high heat) for about 10 minutes to form a slightly thickened syrup. Strain the mixture, discarding the solids, then stir the cardamom spice mixture into the syrup.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet until shimmering over medium heat. Stir in the onions and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring often, until light golden brown. Season lightly with salt, then add the drained barberries or cherries, the apricots and raisins; cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove from the heat.

Combine the 2 cups of reserved blanching water and 6 cups cold water in a large, heavy, preferably nonstick pot over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of salt, then the rice and 1/4 cup of the reserved orange-carrot syrup. Once everything comes to a boil, cook for 6 to 10 minutes (high heat), until the rice rises to the surface. Bite a few grains' worth - they should feel soft. Drain the rice through a large, fine-mesh strainer, rinse with cold water, drain and then transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Rinse out and dry the pot, then return it to the stove, over low heat. Pour in the remaining 4 tablespoons of oil. While that's warming, combine 1 cup of the cooked rice, the yogurt and 2 teaspoons of the saffron water in a separate bowl. Spread this mixture in an even layer over the oil; the yogurt will help to form a tender, caramelized crust called a tahdig.

Stir the cardamom-spiced syrup into the remaining cooked rice, until well incorporated, then transfer to a big pot (preferably with a non-stick bottom). Shape the rice into a pyramid; this will allow room for the rice to expand. Cover tightly and cook over low heat for 15 minutes.

Combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil with the remaining saffron water and 1/4 cup cold water. Uncover the large pot and pour the liquid mixture over the rice pyramid. Lay a clean dish towel over the open pot, then place the pot lid firmly on top of the towel. Cook for about 50 minutes; the rice will be cooked through and the crust should be crispy on the bottom and deep golden-brown.

To serve, transfer the rice to a serving platter or large wide bowl. Top with the barberry-onion mixture and then the nuts.

Use a thin spatula to gently dislodge the tahdig from the bottom of the pot, and serve, in pieces, on the side.

NOTE: If you use barberries, pick through them to discard any stems or debris. Rinse them under running water, then transfer the barberries to a bowl of cold water. Soak for 30 minutes (the sand will settle to the bottom). Using a fine-mesh strainer, gently fish out the barberries, drain and reserve. (If using dried tart cherries, skip this step.)

Nutrition | Per serving (based on 12): 310 calories, 5 g protein, 43 g carbohydrates, 14 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 570 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 14 g sugar

SAFFRON AND POMEGRANATE-GLAZED CHICKEN

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

When combined, pomegranate molasses, honey, saffron and tangerine produce an aromatic and flavorful glaze.

You can swap in half a teaspoon of ground turmeric in place of saffron, which will maintain the rich golden hue saffron provides.

MAKE AHEAD:

Season the chicken and refrigerate it the night before you plan to roast it.

Ingredients

• One (5-pound) whole chicken or bone-in turkey breast
  
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  
• 1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
  
• 1 teaspoon loosely packed saffron threads
  
• 3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
  
• 2 tablespoons mild honey 2 large garlic cloves, finely grated
  
• Finely grated zest and juice of 1 tangerine
  
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
  
• Olive or grapeseed oil, to coat the pan

Steps

Thoroughly pat the chicken or turkey breast dry with paper towels. Stir together the salt and pepper in a small bowl, then rub the seasoning all over the chicken, and inside the cavity. Refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 4 hours, and up to 24 hours. This will allow the seasoning to penetrate the meat and yield a flavorful bird, as well as make it possible for the glaze to stay put on the skin. Before cooking, let the bird sit at room temperature for 1 hour, to ensure even cooking.

When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Heat a small, dry skillet over medium heat. Toast the saffron, shaking the pan a few times, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, transfer the saffron to a small bowl, and let cool. Using a mortar and pestle (or the bottom of a soup spoon), grind the saffron into coarse powder.

Combine the pomegranate molasses, honey, garlic, tangerine zest and juice, cumin and the saffron powder in a small bowl. Using your hands, or a pastry brush, apply the mixture all over the chicken, as well as inside the cavity. You will have extra glaze left over; reserve.

Brush a thin slick of oil on the bottom of a heavy large skillet (preferably cast iron), add the chicken and transfer to the oven. About 30 minutes into roasting, brush some of the extra glaze all over the bird, and repeat every 10 minutes. (It will also give you a good opportunity to make sure the glaze isn't burning too much. The pomegranate-honey mixture can go from beautifully burnished to burned very quickly.)

Roast for 50 to 70 minutes; an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh (away from the bone) should register 165 degrees. The bird should be lacquered and a glossy burgundy-brown.

Let the chicken rest for about 15 minutes before carving.

Nutrition | Per serving (based on 6, using all the glaze): 590 calories, 59 g protein, 13 g carbohydrates, 32 g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 190 mg cholesterol, 740 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 9 g sugar

PISTACHIO ROSEWATER HAMANTASCHEN

MAKES: 36 servings pieces, with rerolling the scraps once

Using mascarpone instead of just margarine yields an especially soft and tender dough.

As rosewater differs in intensity from brand to brand, start with adding a small amount - you can always add more, but once you've added too much, there's no going back. We used Cortas brand in testing.

You'll need a 2 1/2-inch round biscuit or cookie cutter.

MAKE AHEAD: The dough needs to be refrigerated for at least 3 hours, and up to 3 days. The pastries can be stored in an airtight container for up to 4 days. You may have leftover filling, which can be frozen, tightly wrapped in plastic wrap, for up to 1 month.

Ingredients

For the dough

• 2 cups (250 grams) flour, plus more for rolling
  
• 1/4 cup (50 grams) sugar
  
• 1/2 teaspoon (2 grams) baking powder
  
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
  
• 1/2 teaspoon (2 grams) kosher salt
  
• 8 tablespoons (113 grams/1 stick) unsalted margarine, at room temperature
  
• 1/3 cup (85 grams) mascarpone
  
• 1 large egg yolk, at room temperature
  
• 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
  
• Soy milk, for brushing the dough

For the filling

• 1 cup (130 grams) dry roasted, unsalted shelled pistachios
  
• 1/2 cup (65 grams) confectioners' sugar
  
• Finely grated zest of 1 orange
  
• 1/2 teaspoon (2 grams) kosher salt
  
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
  
• 2 teaspoons (8 grams) rosewater
  
• 1 1/2 teaspoons water

Steps

For the dough: Pulse together the flour, sugar, baking powder, cardamom and salt in a food processor fitted with a blade until combined. Add the margarine and pulse until a coarse meal forms. Add the mascarpone and pulse to combine.

Stir together the egg yolk and zest in a small bowl. Add the yolk mixture to the dough and pulse until the dough barely comes together and looks scraggly. (If you overwork the dough and it forms a ball, don't worry. Just be sure to generously flour the counter and the dough when rolling the dough out to prevent it from sticking to the counter and the rolling pin.)

Transfer the dough onto a work surface and gently knead into a ball. Divide the ball half, flatten each in half into a disk, and wrap each tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate the dough for at least 3 hours, and up to 3 days.

For the filling: Pulse the pistachios, sugar, zest, salt and cardamom in a food processor fitted with a blade until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the rosewater and pulse a few times to combine. Add the (plain) water, 1/2 teaspoon at a time, pulsing between additions. The mixture may look crumbly, but should stay together when pressed together.

When you're ready to assemble, let the dough sit on the counter at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes before rolling out. Line several baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners. Lightly flour your rolling pin and the work surface.

Use gentle, even pressure on the rolling pin to roll out a disk of the dough on the work surface to about 1/8-inch thick. Use your 2 1/2-inch cutter to cut rounds of dough, placing them on the lined baking sheets as you work. Brush each round with a thin coat of soy milk. Chill the scraps if you plan to reroll, as the dough may get too soft to work with. Repeat with the remaining disk of dough. You should have at least 36 rounds.

Place a generous 1/2 teaspoon of the filling at the center of each of the dough rounds, and press up the sides to form triangles, pinching to seal at the corners. Brush the tops with more milk. Chill the formed hamantaschen in the refrigerator for 15 minutes; this will help prevent them from opening during baking.

While the hamantaschen are chilling, position upper and lower oven racks; preheat to 350 degrees. (Don't preheat the oven while rolling out the dough as it might make the kitchen too warm.)

Bake (upper and lower racks) for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden, rotating the baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through.

Transfer the baking sheets to wire racks to cool to room temperature before serving or storing.

Nutrition | Per piece: 90 calories, 2 g protein, 9 g carbohydrates, 6 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 15 mg cholesterol, 35 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 4 g sugar

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