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There's a reason: Often in Chinese American restaurants, the food is made through a Cantonese lens, because many Chinese immigrants hailed from southern China.
"Kung pao is a dish you'll find in Sichuan restaurants in China, and that sets it apart from sesame chicken and General Tso chicken. If you ask for those dishes in China, they'd say, 'What is that?'" observed Sarah Leung, co-author of "The Woks of Life."
Traditional kung pao should have an interplay of flavors and textures, with the chicken and scallions cut to be about the same size as the peanuts, so you get a little of each in every bite; the sauce must be a balance of heat and sweetness, "with no standing sauce" in the serving plate.
A light sprinkle of ground Sichuan peppercorns balances the heat from the chiles, she said.
"In a nutshell: We're used to it," Sarah said. "After 10 years of doing this, we've found a good rhythm. We still argue and ruffle feathers, but we've learned to work together efficiently. Boundaries are really important. When we're in work mode, it's almost like we're colleagues rather than being family." For Sarah, the success of the cookbook is that it honors tradition as well as reflects modern interpretations, a blending of old and new. It also offers building blocks for home cooks who want to learn to cook Chinese food.
"I love the idea that Chinese cooking is becoming the domain of home cooks in the United States," she said. For too long, "it was a cuisine that many people were used to only eating out."
KUNG PAO CHICKEN
MAKES: 2-3
Active time: 35 minutes
To get this classic Sichuan dish right, the chicken and scallions must be cut to roughly the size of the peanuts, so you get a little of each ingredient in every bite; and the sauce should be a balance of heat, sweetness and tang that coats each morsel. The Leung family laments the craze of "kung pao-ing the heck out of everything," noting that you can't just throw "peanuts into any wok full of meat and sauce and call it kung pao. The interplay of flavors and textures in this dish is key." Freshly ground Sichuan peppercorns give the dish its distinctive flavor.
If you are serving the dish with rice, put it on to cook before you start making this dish and it should be ready just before the kung pao is done.
Storage note: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.
Where to buy: Sichuan peppercorns, Shaoxing wine, rice vinegar, and light and dark soy sauce can be found at Asian markets and online.
Notes: The Leung family encourages you to "wok-roast" your own peanuts. Here's how: In a wok or skillet over medium-high heat, heat 1 teaspoon of neutral oil until it shimmers. Add 1 cup of raw peanuts and stir-fry constantly, to prevent burning, until slightly darkened, about 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and cook for 1 more minute using the residual heat of the wok. Transfer to a plate to cool.
This recipe calls for light and dark soy sauces. You can substitute regular low-sodium soy sauce, to taste, but it will have an impact on the final result.
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INGREDIENTS
For the chicken:
• 12 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 1 tablespoon water
• 1 teaspoon cornstarch
• 1 teaspoon neutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola
•
• 1 teaspoon Shaoxing wine (may substitute Chinese rice wine or dry sherry)
• 1/8 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
For the sauce:
• 1 teaspoon rice vinegar
• 1 tablespoon light soy sauce (see Notes)
• 1 teaspoon cornstarch
• 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon dark soy sauce (see Notes)
For the rest of the dish:
• 3 tablespoons neutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola, divided
• 3 medium garlic cloves, smashed and sliced
• 2 to 4 dried red chiles, seeded and crumbled into small pieces
• 1/2 cup sliced scallions, light green and white parts only (from 2 small bunches)
• 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
• 1/2 teaspoon ground Sichuan pepper (may substitute freshly cracked black pepper)
• 1 cup roasted unsalted peanuts (see Notes)
• Cooked white rice, for serving
DIRECTIONS
Marinate the chicken: In a medium bowl, combine the chicken, water, cornstarch, oil, Shaoxing wine, salt and the white pepper and toss to coat. Let marinate for 20 minutes.
Make the sauce: Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, light soy sauce, cornstarch, sugar and dark soy sauce.
Assemble the dish: Heat your wok or large nonstick skillet over high heat until lightly smoking. Add 2 tablespoons of oil to coat the surface of the wok. Add the chicken in one layer and sear it undisturbed for 30 seconds, then stir-fry until the chicken turns opaque, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
Reduce the heat to low and add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Add the garlic, chiles, scallions, ginger and Sichuan pepper. Stir-fry until the ginger and garlic are fragrant and the scallions are lightly browned around the edges, about 2 minutes.
Return the chicken to the wok, increase the heat to high, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Re-whisk the sauce so the cornstarch is incorporated, then add it to the wok and stir-fry until the sauce has thickened and clings to the chicken, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and stir in the peanuts. Serve hot, with the rice.
Note: The amount of uncooked rice you'll need to yield 2 cups of cooked rice will vary depending on the chosen rice. For 2 cups of cooked long-grain white rice, rinse 2/3 cup of rice until the water runs clear. Then, place it in a small, lidded saucepan over medium-high heat. Add 1/2 teaspoon olive oil and stir to coat the rice. Add 1 1/2 cups of water and a pinch of salt, if desired, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer until the rice is tender and the water is absorbed, 10 to 15 minutes.
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