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If you are familiar with Jewish cooking mainly from delicatessen menus, you may have the impression that latkes are sauteed potato pancakes and sweet kugels are baked noodle puddings. Yet these specialties are only two examples of their genre.
Indeed, the two popular preparations are, in fact, related. For a long time I didn't realize their connection. Then one Chanukah, when I was visiting my mother in Jerusalem and we had just made some potato latke mixture, she suggested that we prepare a kugel instead. When she saw I was surprised by her suggestion, she explained that latkes and kugels are similar. The difference is simply in how you cook the mixture. She proceeded to fry the mixture as if it were a big latke, and it was delicious.
Usually my mother baked her kugels in the oven, but pan-frying potato kugels is an old tradition in some Jewish communities. The Jews of Alsace, France, for example, sauteed their potato kugels on the stovetop the same way my Polish-born mother did, shaping the mixture in a round that was the size of the skillet, according to Freddy Raphael, author of "Les recettes de la table juive" (Recipes of the Jewish Table).
Kugels of all sorts can be prepared this way. According to "The Taste of Shabbos," by Aish Hatorah Women's Organization, "kugel recipes run the gamut from sweet to salty, soft to crisp, bland to sharp. They may be baked in the oven or pan-fried on the range."
Similarly, latkes can be made from all sorts of ingredients, even pasta. There are noodle latkes made like kugel, from cooked noodles mixed with eggs, oil or butter and seasoning, and pan-fried as patties. You could say kugels and latkes are two sides of the same coin, and just about any mixture can be turned into either one.
Both kugels and latkes are made from either raw vegetables, which are grated, or cooked vegetables, which are chopped, mashed or pureed. Grated potatoes are used to make both classic potato latkes and time-honored potato kugel, but mashed potatoes makes delicious kugels, too, if you prefer a soft, creamy texture instead of a crisp-crusted potato preparation. Grating is most practical for making latkes and kugels from zucchini and from root vegetables such as carrots, sweet potatoes and onions. Cooking and chopping works well for those vegetables, too, as well as for cauliflower, broccoli and spinach.
Potato latke batter can be baked as kugel, too; with other ingredients, the batter's texture varies, depending on how you intend to cook it. You can bake a soft batter as a kugel, but for latkes you need a stiffer mixture, with fewer eggs or more flour, bread crumbs or matzo meal so the pancakes will hold together.
Although most people who celebrate Chanukah expect to enjoy potato latkes at least once during the holiday, many cooks and chefs like to come up with innovative latkes. When I judged a latke contest at the James Beard House in New York City, the first-prize winner, Jill Conklin, the chef of Walter Potenza's Restaurant of Historical Cuisine in Providence, R.I., came up with a fanciful mixed-vegetable latke. It came with a dollop of an Indian mint-flavored yogurt sauce called raita and a spoonful of a sweet-savory green tomato marmalade, instead of the usual sour cream and applesauce.
The reason for serving latkes on Chanukah is to commemorate the miracle of the oil, in which a tiny bit of pure olive oil needed to kindle the Eternal Light in the Holy Temple in Jerusalem lasted for eight days. No potatoes were involved in the extraordinary event, of course, because potatoes come from the New World and were nowhere to be found in the land of Israel over 2000 years ago. But somehow potatoes became universally accepted as part of the culinary traditions of Chanukah.
TRADITIONAL POTATO LATKES
These crisp lacy pancakes are easy to prepare with the aid of a food processor for grating the vegetables. The usual flavoring is grated onion, but some cooks add shredded carrots, zucchini or apple to the potato mixture as well.
Makes about 15 pancakes, 4 to 5 servings.
Ingredients
• 1 medium onion (about 1/2 pound)
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley (optional)
• 1 large egg
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
• 2 tablespoons all purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• About 1/2 cup vegetable oil (for frying)
•Applesauce, sour cream or sugar (for serving) Grate potatoes and onions, using grating disc of a food processor or large holes of a grater. Transfer them to a colander. Squeeze mixture to press out as much liquid as possible. Add parsley, egg, salt, pepper, flour and baking powder.
Heat 1/2 cup oil in a deep heavy 10- to 12-inch skillet. For each pancake, drop about 2 tablespoons of potato mixture into pan. Flatten with back of a spoon so each cake is about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter. Fry over medium heat about 4 to 5 minutes on each side, or until golden brown and crisp. Turn carefully with 2 pancake turners so oil doesn't splatter. Drain on paper towels. Stir potato mixture before frying each new batch. If all the oil is absorbed, add a little more to pan. Serve hot, accompanied by applesauce, compote, sour cream or sugar.
NOTE: Potato latkes can be prepared ahead and refrigerated or frozen on a cookie sheet; when frozen, they can be transferred to a bag. They can be reheated (after being slightly thawed if they were frozen) on a cookie sheet in a 450 F oven for a few minutes.
POTATO KUGEL WITH ASPARAGUS AND BROCCOLI
This kugel is based on a recipe from my good friend, Gregory Dinner, who learned it from his grandmother, Rose Miller, who was of Polish origin.
Makes 6 servings.
• 6 large boiling potatoes (about 2 1/4 pounds), unpeeled
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 3/4 pound asparagus, peeled, cut in 1 to 1 1/2-inch pieces
• 3/4 pound broccoli, divided in fairly small florets
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 5 tablespoons schmaltz (rendered chicken fat), butter or margarine
• 3 medium onions, chopped
• 1 large egg, beaten
• 1/2 teaspoon paprika
In a large saucepan, cover potatoes with water, add a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over low heat 35 to 40 minutes or until very tender. Drain and leave until cool enough to handle.
Boil asparagus in a medium saucepan of boiling salted water to cover 3 minutes or until tender. Remove asparagus with slotted spoon, rinse it with cold water, and drain it. Add broccoli to the boiling water and boil uncovered about 4 minutes or until just tender. Rinse with cold water and drain.
In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil and 2 tablespoons schmaltz, add onions and saute over medium heat until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove 1/2 cup sauteed onions for mixing with potatoes. To onions in skillet add asparagus and broccoli, sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss over low heat 2 minutes.
Peel potatoes while still fairly hot. Mash them with a potato masher or food mill, not in a food processor. Add remaining 3 tablespoons schmaltz and stir until melted in. Add beaten egg and reserved 1/2 cup of fried onion. Add salt and pepper to taste; mixture should be seasoned generously.
In a greased 2-quart casserole, layer half of potato mixture (about 2 1/2 cups), top with all of asparagus mixture, then with remaining potatoes. Smooth top. (Kugel can be covered and refrigerated overnight.)
Preheat oven to 350 F. Sprinkle casserole with paprika and bake uncovered about 50 minutes or until top is firm and light golden at edges. Let stand about 10 minutes before serving. Use a spoon to serve.
CAULIFLOWER LATKES
These are good as an appetizer topped with sour cream, yogurt or salsa, or as an accompaniment for roast chicken.
Makes 6 servings.
• 1 large cauliflower (about 2 pounds), divided in large florets
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 6 to 7 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 6 tablespoons unseasoned breadcrumbs
• 2 large eggs
Cook cauliflower in a large pan of boiling salted water uncovered over high heat for 10 minutes or until very tender. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large heavy skillet, add onion and cook over medium-low heat about 10 minutes or until soft and golden brown.
Drain cauliflower thoroughly and mash with a fork or chop in a food processor. There should still be small pieces of cauliflower. Add breadcrumbs, eggs, fried onion and salt and pepper to taste, and mix well with a wooden spoon.
Wipe pan used to fry onions, add 4 tablespoons oil and heat it. Take 1 heaping tablespoon cauliflower mixture in your hand and press to make it compact. Flatten it to a cake about 1/2 inch thick and add to pan. Make 4 or 5 more cakes and add them. Fry over medium heat about 3 minutes on each side or until brown. Turn carefully using a wide pancake turner. Drain on paper towels. Keep warm by placing in a 300 F oven with door ajar while frying rest. Add more oil to pan if it becomes dry. Serve plain or with sour cream.
CAULIFLOWER KUGEL WITH MUSHROOMS
The flavoring mixture for this kugel, of sauteed onions and mushrooms seasoned with paprika, is a favorite in the eastern European Jewish kitchen.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
• 1 large cauliflower (2 1/4 pounds)
• Salt and pepper
• 4 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1/4 pound medium or small mushrooms, quartered
• 2 large eggs
• 1 tablespoon matzo meal or 2 tablespoons breadcrumbs
• 1/2 teaspoon paprika
• 1/3 cup coarsely chopped walnuts (optional)
Preheat oven to 375 F. Divide cauliflower in medium florets. Cut peel from large stalk and slice stalk. Boil cauliflower in a large saucepan of boiling salted water for 10 minutes or until stalks are very tender. Drain well and cool. Puree in food processor, leaving a few chunks. Transfer to a bowl.
Heat 3 tablespoons oil in medium skillet, add onion and saute 5 minutes. Add mushrooms and saute together over medium heat about 5 minutes or until mushrooms and onions are light brown.
Add eggs and matzo meal to cauliflower mixture. Season well with salt and pepper. Lightly stir in mushroom mixture and any oil in pan.
Oil a shallow 8-inch square baking dish. Add cauliflower mixture. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon oil over top. Sprinkle with paprika, then with walnuts. Bake 30 minutes or until set. To serve, cut carefully in squares and run knife around edges. Use spoon to remove portions.
VEGETABLE LATKES WITH MINT RAITA
This recipe is inspired by Chef Jill Conklin's award-winning latkes. She made the raita with sour cream, but you can use yogurt instead. If you like, serve a sweet tomato chutney as well. Cook the latkes a short time before serving.
Makes 25 small latkes
• 3 large baking potatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds)
• 1 medium onion
• 1 medium sweet red pepper 2
• medium zucchini, grated
• 2 medium carrots, grated
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 3/4 cup matzo meal
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1 teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
• 6 tablespoons vegetable oil
• Sour Cream Mint Raita (see recipe below)
• Fresh mint or chives (for garnish)
Grate the potatoes, alternating with the onion (this helps prevent browning). As you grate, place the potatoes in a fine mesh strainer set over a bowl. Reserve the potato juice that falls into the bowl.
Grate the red pepper, flesh side first, until you reach the skin, then discard skin. Squeeze all excess liquid from the grated pepper.
Combine grated potato, onion, zucchini, carrot and grated pepper in a bowl. From the bowl of potato juice, gently pour off the water; beneath the water there should be natural thick potato starch that settled out from the grating process. Add this starch to the vegetable mixture. Add eggs, matzo meal, salt, pepper, nutmeg and parsley, blending well.
In a 12- to 13-inch skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil. To make each latke, use 1 tablespoon of potato mixture and gently spread with the back of a spoon, making the latke about 2 inches wide. You should fit 5 to 6 latkes in pan at one time. Fry latkes on medium heat 2 to 3 minutes on first side; gently turn and cook 3 to 4 minutes more. Add more oil to pan as needed. Remove latkes and set on paper towels to drain excess oil. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper.
Serve with sour cream raita. Garnish with fresh mint or chives.
SOUR CREAM MINT RAITA
This is a light, refreshing topping of sour cream, cucumber and onion. You need only a small dab on each latke.
Makes about 1 1/3 cups.
• 4 medium cucumbers, peeled
• 1/2 cup white onion, minced
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Juice of 1 large lemon
• 1 cup sour cream, yogurt, or a mixture of both
• 4 to 6 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
If cuc
umbers have lots of seeds, cut them in half lengthwise and remove seed-filled centers with a spoon. Mince cucumbers. In a small mixing bowl combine cucumbers and onion. Season with salt and pepper and add lemon juice. Mix in sour cream and fresh mint. Taste and adjust seasoning. Refrigerate until ready to use.
VEGETABLE KUGEL
Made from a colorful vegetable mixture, this kugel is flavored with sauteed onions and makes a pleasing change from potato kugel.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
• 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon vegetable oil or olive oil
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 pound yellow squash or zucchini, or 1/2 pound of each, coarsely grated
• 2 large carrots, peeled, coarsely grated
• 2 large baking potatoes, peeled
• 3 eggs
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground pepper, or to taste
• 1/3 cup chopped Italian parsley
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 1/4 cup matzo meal or bread crumbs
Preheat oven to 350 F. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a skillet, add onion and saute over medium-low heat until softened, about 10 minutes.
Transfer grated squash and carrots to a large bowl and add sauteed onion. Coarsely grate potatoes, put in large strainer and squeeze out excess liquid. Add to bowl of vegetables. Add eggs, salt, pepper, parsley, paprika and matzo meal.
Generously oil an 8-inch square pan or a 7-cup baking dish. Heat pan briefly in oven. Add vegetable mixture. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon oil, then shake a little paprika on top. Bake about 1 hour or until brown and set.
Faye Levy is the author of, among others, "1,000 Jewish Recipes" and of "Healthy Cooking for the Jewish Home."