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April 28th, 2024

The Kosher Gourmet

This lovely and comforting classic steakhouse side dish becomes the main attraction --- in only 20 minutes

 Aaron Hutcherson

By Aaron Hutcherson The Washington Post

Published Dec. 19, 2022

This lovely and comforting classic steakhouse side dish becomes the main attraction --- in only 20 minutes
	Scott Suchman for The Washington Post


Being a food writer, I sometimes (wrongly) assume everyone is familiar with certain ingredients and dishes. One such instance occurred with my recipe for corn soup with chili crisp. Though the spicy condiment regularly appears on my social media feeds and articles have been written about it in various publications, I was surprised to receive emails and comments from readers who had no clue what it was.

We never had gnocchi when I was a child, but I've been eating the Italian dumplings - and sometimes even making them from scratch - for the past 10 or so years. In my current world, gnocchi are everywhere: on restaurant menus, in food media and occupying significant real estate near the pasta section of the grocery stores I frequent. But my world is just that - mine - and I was reminded of that when shopping for ingredients to test this recipe.

Unlike the prominence and options I am used to, there was only one brand of gnocchi high on a shelf at the supermarket near my childhood home on Chicago's South Side, a telltale sign of the ingredient's lack of popularity in that neighborhood.

So if gnocchi are also new to you, let me extol its virtues.

As I told my mother, the simplest way to think about gnocchi is like a type of pasta - they're usually found near each other in the grocery store - in that it's typically served with any manner of sauce. Once boiled or simmered (as in the recipe below), they transform into soft little dumpling pillows with an almost cloudlike texture. In sum: they're sublime - and definitely worth throwing in your cart the next time you're stocking your pantry.

This recipe inspired by creamed spinach turns the classic steakhouse side dish into the main attraction. Nutmeg and cayenne pepper add warmth and heat to the creamy spinach sauce made from pantry-friendly canned evaporated milk (though you could use heavy cream instead) and the frozen vegetable.

You can add the frozen spinach straight from the freezer (as I did initially), but beware that it will thin the sauce significantly. For a less watery sauce, thaw the spinach and remove excess moisture by squeezing it in a dish towel or pressing it with a spoon or spatula in a mesh strainer.

Once the sauce is assembled, toss in the gnocchi to let them simmer. After just 20 minutes, this one-pot recipe is ready. When serving, you can add toasted breadcrumbs for texture or top with grated parmesan cheese to lean into the creamed spinach inspiration, but this dish is lovely and comforting as is. As my mother said, "This has a good taste to it." From my mom who tends to stick to the familiar, that's high praise.

This pantry-friendly recipe inspired by creamed spinach turns the classic steakhouse side dish into the main attraction. Nutmeg and cayenne pepper add warmth and heat to the creamy spinach sauce. Each bowl is full of comfort and can be on the table in only 20 minutes.

Storage Notes: Refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.

NOTE: You can add the spinach while still frozen if you want to save an extra step. Just note that the sauce will be thinner. For a richer sauce, replace the evaporated milk with 1 1/2 cups of heavy cream.

GNOCCHI WITH CREAMY SPINACH SAUCE

4 servings

Time: 20 minutes This pantry-friendly recipe inspired by creamed spinach turns the classic steakhouse side dish into the main attraction. Nutmeg and cayenne pepper add warmth and heat to the creamy spinach sauce. Each bowl is full of comfort and can be on the table in only 20 minutes. Storage Notes: Refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days. NOTE: You can add the spinach while still frozen if you want to save an extra step. Just note that the sauce will be thinner. For a richer sauce, replace the evaporated milk with 1 1/2 cups of heavy cream.

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion (10 ounces), diced
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
One (12- or 16-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry (see NOTE)
One (12-ounce) can evaporated milk (see NOTE)
1 pound shelf-stable potato gnocchi

DIRECTIONS

In a large saute pan or pot over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it shimmers. Add the onion, garlic powder, salt, black pepper, nutmeg and cayenne pepper and cook, stirring regularly, until the onions start to soften and turn translucent, about 5 minutes.

Add the spinach and evaporated milk and bring to a simmer. Add the gnocchi, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the gnocchi are soft and tender but not mushy, about 5 minutes. Divide among bowls and serve hot.

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