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http://www.jewishworldreview.com --
NO MATTER where I travel, the most exciting discoveries are made in
villages and hamlets off the beaten track. With that in mind, on a recent
trip to Devon and Cornwall, my husband and I were determined to keep to the
backroads. That is, single track roads winding through lush, green
countryside, and lined on either side with high hedgerows. Just as well,
since we found ourselves caught in the middle of the gas (petrol) crisis
where gas stations all over Britain were closed up tight for three days. We
were lucky. A small Austin automobile goes far when you start off with a full
tank.
Today it's hard to find Jewish communities in Devon and Cornwall, although
there are tiny pockets in a few areas. Not so in the 18th and 19th centuries
when vibrant Jewish communities flourished in Falmouth, Penzance, Plymouth
and Exeter. In fact, the two oldest Ashkenazi synagogues still in use in the
English-speaking world, and dating from 1764 and 1763 are in Plymouth and
Exeter. The Georgian cemeteries may still be seen in Falmouth and Penzance
though the synagogue buildings have been converted for other purposes. Small
communities and places of worship still remain in Plymouth and Exeter.
Torquay has a functioning synagogue which we discovered too late (and with
not enough gas) to attend services. But in this part of England, we also
found a renewed interest and traces of past Jewish life.
The Hidden Legacy
Foundation, established in 1988, worked only in Germany to save endangered
synagogues but is now focusing on rural Jewry in England. In Falmouth, a
fascinating permanent exhibit at the Art Museum, entitled the Jews of Devon
and Cornwall, was sponsored by Lemon Hart Rum, a company founded in the early
19th century by Lemon Hart, a Jew from Penzance. Evelyn Friedlander who
organised the exhibition notes that it describes the enormous contribution
the Jewish people made to life in Devon and Cornwall and the unique pieces of
18th century ritual silver (some with the Exeter assay mark), help convey the
meaning of Jewish life. And at the pilchard works in Newlyn, Cornwall, we
talked with Robin Turner of Turner Fisheries, who laughingly admitted to
speaking four languages - English, French, Cornish and Yiddish.
Our guide was the AA book of B&B's - 5 stars for the best which guaranteed
luxurious comfort and cooked to order hearty English breakfasts. The
innkeepers were warm and friendly offering a wealth of information. Thus we
found our way to local farms producing everything from scrumpy (farmhouse
cider) and honey to Cornish Yarg, the unique nettle-wrapped cheeses.
Cherry, the winsome innkeeper at Merwyn House Hotel in Bush Hull village,
near Taunton, directed us to Sheppys Cider , one of the few cider farms left
in England. The Sheppy family has been making award-winning cider here from
the early 1800's. Colin Turner, the cellar and orchard man, gave us the
grand tour explaining that the art of the cider maker lies in skillful
blending of differing flavors so that a clear, golden, alcoholic liquid is
obtained. Contrary to popular belief, the best cider is not made from eating
apples. Good cider apples such as Kingston Black and Stembridge Jersey are
fibrous so that when they are pulped the juice is squeezed out cleanly. They
also contain high levels of tannin, responsible for the golden orange colour
of the cider. Sheppy's annual production is 65,000 gallons distributed as far
away as Hong Kong and Japan. Fortified with generous samples of the clear,
golden liquid, we drove past bushes heavy with blackberries to Quince Honey
Farm, South Molton, where owner Paddy Wallace described how 60,000 bees bring
to the 1500 hives the rich, strong flavored heather honey from Exmoor. "They
never go more than 1 1/2 miles from their hives and always find their way
back - they have landmarks, just like humans," he explained.
Determined to track down Lynher Dairies, in Liskeard, a tiny town south of
Bodmin Moor, we ended up following a herd of Freisian-Holstein cattle
through green pastures. The dairy has been in the Horrell family for three
generations and is the only place in Britain where Cornish Yarg, a
semi-soft cheese wrapped in nettle leaves, is produced. According to office
manager, Tania Hall, the recipe was found in the early 1980's in an old
farmhouse. With the dusty, grassy wrap and creamy consistency, the flavor is
nothing less than sensational.
The highlight of our visit was an overnight stay in Chagford, a picture book
village in North Dartmoor. With thatched roofs and antique shops tucked
upstairs in centuries old cottages, you wouldn't be surprised to find Agatha
Christie's Miss Marple, striding through the square with a shopping basket on
her arm. Parford Well, a 5 star gem, graciously run by innkeeper Tim Daniel,
is the place to stay. Enny's in St. Hilary, near Penzance, where we stayed in
a comfy converted hayloft complete with dormer windows and fluffy duvets, is
a close second. Gill Charlton, the innkeeper and weekend travel editor for
London's Daily Telegraph serves tea, Victoria sponge and flapjacks, in her
country kitchen every afternoon at 4p.m. We loved it ...and stayed three
nights.
You'll find typical dishes of the"south-west" English countryside in local
markets and even supermarkets, but as any innkeeper will tell you - the best
are made at home.
CIDER-GIN COCKTAIL (PAREVE)
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
Place the lemon rind in a large pitcher. Pour the gin over and let stand 30
minutes.
Add the cider, stir and serve at once.
Note: Pour over shaved ice and serve a la Americaine!
TEDDY SOUP (DAIRY)
(Teddy is a Devon term for potatoes)
Melt the butter or margarine in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the
potatoes and leek. Cook vegetables for 10 minutes until limp, but not
browned. Add the stock, chives, basil and marjoram. Bring to a boil. Reduce
heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes or until the potatoes are soft. Cool
slightly. Puree in a blender or food processor. Add the pimento and 1/2 cup
milk. Heat through, season to taste with salt and pepper. Add a little more
milk if too thick.
CORNISH PASTIES (MEAT)
MAKES 4
A traditional hearty meal for Cornish tin-miners. Originally there was a
meat filling at one end and a sweet filling at the other - main course and
dessert in one crisp case.
Filling:
Preheat oven to 400F. In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat.
Add the beef, onions, potatoes and turnip. Cook, stirring often, until the
beef has lost it's pinkness and the vegetables are limp, 10-15 minutes.
Season to taste with lemon pepper seasoning and salt to taste. Set aside to
cool.
Knead the pastry sheets together. Roll out thinly on a lightly floured board.
With a large saucer or small plate, cut out four 6 or 7 inch rounds. Place
one quarter of the filling on each pastry round. Moisten edges with water,
then bring them together to seal. Crimp the edges with your fingers or a
fork. Place on a baking sheet and brush with the egg. Bake in preheated oven
for 20-25 minutes or until nicely browned and pastry is risen. Serve hot or
at room temperature.
VICTORIA SPONGE CAKE WITH CHOCOLATE CREAM FILLING (DAIRY)
Serves 8-10
Filling:
Preheat oven to 350F. Spray two 9-inch cake tins or pie plates with non-stick
vegetable spray. Place the butter and sugar in a large bowl. Beat until
light and fluffy, 2-3 minutes. Add the eggs, flour, and baking powder. Beat
well to blend. Divide between the two cake pans. Smooth the tops. Bake in
preheated oven 25 minutes or until risen, golden and the tops spring back
when pressed lightly with fingertips. Cool for a few minutes. Turn out onto a
wire rack. When completely cooled, sandwich together with jam and top with
whipped cream mixed with the chocolate. Sprinkle with confectioners sugar if
desired.
Note: To make this pareve, substitute vegetable margarine for the butter,
non-dairy topping for whipped cream, and pareve chocolate.
FLAPJACKS (DAIRY)
*use margarine to make pareve
Preheat oven to 325F. Spray a 9-inch square baking dish with non-stick
vegetable spray.
In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Reduce to low and add
the sugar and corn syrup. Remove from heat and stir in the ginger and
oatmeal. mix well. Spoon into the prepared dish. Press down into a layer
about 1/2 inch thick. Bake in preheated oven for 30 minutes or until a rich
brown. While still warm, cut into squares. Cool 10 minutes longer, remove
from dish and place on a wire rack to cool completely.
Note: If left in dish until cool, flapjacks will harden and be difficult to
remove. If this happens, place in a 350F oven for 5-7 minutes to
Off the Beaten Track:
Jewish roots and
delicious discoveries
By Ethel G. Hofman
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Makes 30
JWR contributor Ethel G. Hofman is the former president of the International Association of Culinary Professionals, whose members include the likes of Julia Child. She is the author, most recently, of Everyday Cooking for the Jewish Home: More Than 350 Delectable Recipes.