JWR Wandering Jews



Jewish World Review Nov. 3, 1999 / 22 Mar-Cheshvan, 5760


Sam Margolis


Hungary Diarist


Most of the Szanto Zsinagoga
The world's smallest synagogue



http://www.jewishworldreview.com -- SHOULD A CONVENTION of linebackers decide to hold a minyan while on a trip to Hungary they would be best directed to the ornate and opulent Dohanyi Street Synagogue, one of the largest in the world, situated in downtown Budapest.

One would not lead them north along the Danube to the Szanto Zsinagoga, a Hungarian synagogue which prides itself as being "the smallest synagogue in the world", where ten ballerinas would have a difficult time squeezing in.

Finding the Szanto Synagogue while not requiring a magnifying glass is still not an easy task, particularly if one is not conversant in the Hungarian idiom. Even if one can muster a couple of sentences in the Magyar tongue that does not mean the task is a done deal as it would appear most residents of this small town of 20,000 have nary the faintest idea where the place is.


Econophone


The trip to Szentendre is best taken by a scenic boat ride along the mighty river. The other alternative is the suburban metro, a forty-five minute trip, which at about the cost of a dollar for the journey was just about all my budget allowed.

After disembarking from the metro, my photographer, Szabolcs, and I proceeded to make the mile trek mostly up hill through the town center and on to the temple, but not before breaking for a langos (fried bread best accompanied by sour cream--delicious but not the stuff for the diet conscious) to collect our energy along the way.

While serving as a centre for Hungarian artisans, Szentendre also seems to be vying for the moniker of Central European tourist trap. That is, after paying four times what one should for a bowl of beef goulash one can walk out on the street and pay ten times what one should for a Hungarian quilt.

(Nevertheless, a stop at the Marzipan Café and the gallery of ceramic artist Margit Kovacs are two other destinations not to be missed on this day trip.)

Having traversed this hilly town from end to end, we finally found our intended destination, but not after passing by a couple of times –hence proving that the synagogue was about to live up to its billing.

The Szanto Memorial House and Temple was officially opened on May 17, 1998 by Professor Jozsef Sweitzer, the chief rabbi of Hungary. It is the first new synagogue to have been built in Hungary since the end of World War II.

Before World War II, approximately 250 Jews lived in Szentendre. Among them was the Szanto family from which the synagogue derives its name. Lajos Szanto and his wife perished after the Jews living in Szentendre were deported to various death camps in June, 1944. Their son Gyorgy Szanto decided to erect a memorial place in the courtyard of the house he was born in honor of their memory. In 1997, Gyorgy Szanto died and his desire for the memorial to the Szentendre Jews was fulfilled by his son Andras early last year.


The memorial house features an illustrated history of Jewish life in Szentendre prior to the war. The showcases hold several relics and local documents from the Jewish community in Szentendre from 1828 to 1944.

The showcases also include a picture of the Jewish Elementary School on a field trip to the Budapest Zoo. Only one of the little girls in the picture survived Auschwitz.




Sam Margolis is JWR's man in Hungary. Send your comments to him by clicking here.


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©1999 Sam Margolis