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In this issue

Jonathan Tobin: Defending the Right to a Jewish State

Heather Hale: Compliment your kids without giving them big heads

Megan Shauri: 10 ways you are ruining your own happiness

Carolyn Bigda: 8 Best Dividend Stocks for 2015

Kiplinger's Personal Finance editors: 7 Things You Didn't Know About Paying Off Student Loans

Samantha Olson: The Crucial Mistake 55% Of Parents Are Making At Their Baby's Bedtime

Densie Well, Ph.D., R.D. Open your eyes to yellow vegetables

The Kosher Gourmet by Megan Gordon With its colorful cache of purples and oranges and reds, COLLARD GREEN SLAW is a marvelous mood booster --- not to mention just downright delish
April 18, 2014

Rabbi Yonason Goldson: Clarifying one of the greatest philosophical conundrums in theology

Caroline B. Glick: The disappearance of US will

Megan Wallgren: 10 things I've learned from my teenagers

Lizette Borreli: Green Tea Boosts Brain Power, May Help Treat Dementia

John Ericson: Trying hard to be 'positive' but never succeeding? Blame Your Brain

The Kosher Gourmet by Julie Rothman Almondy, flourless torta del re (Italian king's cake), has royal roots, is simple to make, . . . but devour it because it's simply delicious

April 14, 2014

Rabbi Dr Naftali Brawer: Passover frees us from the tyranny of time

Greg Crosby: Passing Over Religion

Eric Schulzke: First degree: How America really recovered from a murder epidemic

Georgia Lee: When love is not enough: Teaching your kids about the realities of adult relationships

Cameron Huddleston: Freebies for Your Lawn and Garden

Gordon Pape: How you can tell if your financial adviser is setting you up for potential ruin

Dana Dovey: Up to 500,000 people die each year from hepatitis C-related liver disease. New Treatment Has Over 90% Success Rate

Justin Caba: Eating Watermelon Can Help Control High Blood Pressure

The Kosher Gourmet by Joshua E. London and Lou Marmon Don't dare pass over these Pesach picks for Manischewitz!

April 11, 2014

Rabbi Hillel Goldberg: Silence is much more than golden

Caroline B. Glick: Forgetting freedom at Passover

Susan Swann: How to value a child for who he is, not just what he does

Cameron Huddleston: 7 Financial Tasks You Should Tackle Right Now

Sandra Block and Lisa Gerstner: How to Profit From Your Passion

Susan Scutti: A Simple Blood Test Might Soon Diagnose Cancer

Chris Weller: Have A Slow Metabolism? Let Science Speed It Up For You

The Kosher Gourmet by Diane Rossen Worthington Whitefish Terrine: A French take on gefilte fish

April 9, 2014

Jonathan Tobin: Why Did Kerry Lie About Israeli Blame?

Samuel G. Freedman: A resolution 70 years later for a father's unsettling legacy of ashes from Dachau

Jessica Ivins: A resolution 70 years later for a father's unsettling legacy of ashes from Dachau

Kim Giles: Asking for help is not weakness

Kathy Kristof and Barbara Hoch Marcus: 7 Great Growth Israeli Stocks

Matthew Mientka: How Beans, Peas, And Chickpeas Cleanse Bad Cholesterol and Lowers Risk of Heart Disease

Sabrina Bachai: 5 At-Home Treatments For Headaches

The Kosher Gourmet by Daniel Neman Have yourself a matzo ball: The secrets bubby never told you and recipes she could have never imagined

April 8, 2014

Lori Nawyn: At Your Wit's End and Back: Finding Peace

Susan B. Garland and Rachel L. Sheedy: Strategies Married Couples Can Use to Boost Benefits

David Muhlbaum: Smart Tax Deductions Non-Itemizers Can Claim

Jill Weisenberger, M.S., R.D.N., C.D.E : Before You Lose Your Mental Edge

Dana Dovey: Coffee Drinkers Rejoice! Your Cup Of Joe Can Prevent Death From Liver Disease

Chris Weller: Electric 'Thinking Cap' Puts Your Brain Power Into High Gear

The Kosher Gourmet by Marlene Parrish A gift of hazelnuts keeps giving --- for a variety of nutty recipes: Entree, side, soup, dessert

April 4, 2014

Rabbi David Gutterman: The Word for Nothing Means Everything

Charles Krauthammer: Kerry's folly, Chapter 3

Amy Peterson: A life of love: How to build lasting relationships with your children

John Ericson: Older Women: Save Your Heart, Prevent Stroke Don't Drink Diet

John Ericson: Why 50 million Americans will still have spring allergies after taking meds

Cameron Huddleston: Best and Worst Buys of April 2014

Stacy Rapacon: Great Mutual Funds for Young Investors

Sarah Boesveld: Teacher keeps promise to mail thousands of former students letters written by their past selves

The Kosher Gourmet by Sharon Thompson Anyone can make a salad, you say. But can they make a great salad? (SECRETS, TESTED TECHNIQUES + 4 RECIPES, INCLUDING DRESSINGS)

April 2, 2014

Paul Greenberg: Death and joy in the spring

Dan Barry: Should South Carolina Jews be forced to maintain this chimney built by Germans serving the Nazis?

Mayra Bitsko: Save me! An alien took over my child's personality

Frank Clayton: Get happy: 20 scientifically proven happiness activities

Susan Scutti: It's Genetic! Obesity and the 'Carb Breakdown' Gene

Lecia Bushak: Why Hand Sanitizer May Actually Harm Your Health

Stacy Rapacon: Great Funds You Can Own for $500 or Less

Cameron Huddleston: 7 Ways to Save on Home Decor

The Kosher Gourmet by Steve Petusevsky Exploring ingredients as edible-stuffed containers (TWO RECIPES + TIPS & TECHINQUES)

Jewish World Review

Kaiserschmarrn is a treat from the glorious past of the Austrian Empire

By Nick Malgieri



JewishWorldReview.com | Though everyone in Vienna agrees that Kaiserschmarrn was first prepared for Emperor Franz Joseph (1830-1916), in typical Viennese fashion no one seems to agree about what the name actually means.Kaiser is of course emperor, but schmarrn has a variety of meanings -- a mess, a folly or even crumbs.

Linguistic quibbles aside, Kaiserschmarrn is a member of one of the most beloved Viennese food categories, Mehlspeisen, or flour dishes. Viennese cuisine boasts dozens of different dumplings, dense souffle-like dishes and puddings that originated hundreds of years ago in far outposts of the empire, and the real Viennese still consume them on a regular basis. And although Kaisershmarrn is sweetened, that doesn't prevent anyone in Vienna from enjoying it for any meal of the day they choose.

To get the goods on Kaiserschmarrn, I visited Chef Rupert Schnait when he was still executive chef at the Hotel Bristol, one of Vienna's grandest properties. Since then he has moved to the Bristol's sister hotel, the Imperial. Chef Scnait prepared the batter and then showed me the "secret" technique for making light and delicious Kaiserschmarrn: breaking the partially baked batter into pieces before finishing it in the oven. Most places just bake a fluffy pancake and then break it apart and reheat it in butter and sugar -- which isn't bad, but neither as elegant nor as flavorful as Chef Schnait's version.

Kaiserschmarrn starts out with a mixture similar to that for a souffle omelet, and when it's partially cooked, it's attacked with the end of a spatula and broken into pieces. After a quick trip to the oven to finish baking through, it's further broken into smaller pieces while being cooked in more butter and a sprinkling of confectioners' sugar to make a delicious caramelized crust all around. Traditionally served with a compote of late-season plums beloved by the Viennese, it may also be served with applesauce or a strawberry compote as in the recipe below.

Mom might not have much in common with the Franz Joseph's beautiful wife, Empress Elisabeth, but she can certainly enjoy one of the couple's favorite dishes on her day.



KAISERSCHMARRN (Emperor's Scramble)

Adapted from Executive Chef Rupert Schnait, Hotel Imperial, Vienna, Austria

MAKES: 3 generous or 4 smaller servings


STRAWBERRY COMPOTE:

  • 2 pints strawberries, rinsed, hulled and halved
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon water
  • 1 tablespoon dark rum
  • 1 tablespoon grenadine syrup



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KAISERSCHMARRN BATTER

  • 1/4 cup dark raisins
  • 1 tablespoon dark rum
  • 6 large eggs, separated
  • 1/4 cup sugar, divided
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour (spoon flour into dry-measure cup and level off)
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • Pinch of salt
  • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 12 pieces, divided use
  • 2 tablespoons confectioner's sugar, plus more for sprinkling the finished dish
  • One 12-inch nonstick sloping-sided saute pan with a heatproof handle (see note below)
  • An oval gratin dish or other baking dish for serving

1. Several hours or the day before you intend to serve the Kaiserschmarrn, make the strawberry compote: combine all the ingredients in a nonreactive saucepan and place on medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. For advance preparation, cool, place in a bowl or container with a cover, cover, and refrigerate until needed. If using soon after, leave in the pan off heat.

2. Several hours or the day before, place the raisins in a small pan and cover with water. Bring to a boil, drain, and place in a small bowl. Stir in the rum, cover with plastic wrap, and leave at room temperature until needed.

3. When you intend to serve the Kaiserschmarrn, set a rack in the middle level of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees.

4. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the yolks by hand until lightened. Whisk in the sugar, vanilla and lemon zest, and continue whisking until lighter, about another minute.

5. Sift one-third of the flour over the yolk mixture and whisk it in smoothly. Whisk in half the milk.

6. Repeat step 5.

7. Sift over and whisk in the remaining flour and set aside.

8. Combine the egg whites and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer. Use the whisk attachment to whip the egg whites on medium speed until white, opaque, risen in volume, and beginning to hold their shape. Increase the speed to medium-high and whip in the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar a little at a time, continuing to whip until the egg whites hold a soft peak.

9. Quickly but gently fold the egg whites into the yolk and flour mixture.

10. Melt one-third of the butter in the saute pan over medium heat; wait until the butter's foam has begun to subside, then pour in the batter. Scatter the rum and raisins over the top of the batter.

11. Let the batter cook undisturbed until it starts to set on the bottom, about a minute.

12. Use a pancake turner or other spatula to cut the batter vertically into 6 pieces. Wipe the end of the spatula and slide it under one for the pieces and turn it over. Don't worry if it falls apart (turn it over anyway), just wait a few more seconds before attempting to turn the rest of the pieces. If the batter isn't set enough on the bottom to turn entirely over, just lift spatula-sized mounds of batter and keep turning them over -- in a couple of minutes, most of the batter will have solidified.

13. Off heat, use the end of the spatula to quickly chop the batter into 1/2-inch pieces.

14. Place the pan in the oven to finish baking the batter through, about a minute or so.

15. Return the pan to medium-low heat, push the pieces of baked batter to one side and half add the remaining butter and sprinkle with a tablespoon of the confectioners' sugar. Use the spatula to chop the batter vertically into smaller pieces, turning portions of the pieces over at the same time. Continue to chop and turn for a minute.

16. Repeat step 15, using the remaining butter and confectioners' sugar.

17. At the same time, reheat the strawberry compote if necessary.

18. Pour the Kaiserschmarrn into the prepared serving dish, dust with confectioners' sugar, and pour the compote into a bowl. Serve immediately by spooning some of the Kaiserschmarrn onto plates with some of the strawberry compote alongside.

Note: Don't attempt this in a smaller pan; if you only have a 10- or 11-inch pan, cook half the batter at a time in succession, using only half the amount of butter called for in each step where it's used. Keep the first batch warm in the serving dish loosely covered with aluminum foil while cooking the second batch.

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Nick Malgieri is the award-winning author of "Perfect Cakes," HarperCollins, 2002; "A Baker's Tour," HarperCollins, 2005; and "Perfect Light Desserts" Morrow, 2006.




© 2014, NICK MALGIERI. Distributed by Tribune Media Services Inc.

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