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Jonathan Tobin: Defending the Right to a Jewish State

Heather Hale: Compliment your kids without giving them big heads

Megan Shauri: 10 ways you are ruining your own happiness

Carolyn Bigda: 8 Best Dividend Stocks for 2015

Kiplinger's Personal Finance editors: 7 Things You Didn't Know About Paying Off Student Loans

Samantha Olson: The Crucial Mistake 55% Of Parents Are Making At Their Baby's Bedtime

Densie Well, Ph.D., R.D. Open your eyes to yellow vegetables

The Kosher Gourmet by Megan Gordon With its colorful cache of purples and oranges and reds, COLLARD GREEN SLAW is a marvelous mood booster --- not to mention just downright delish
April 18, 2014

Rabbi Yonason Goldson: Clarifying one of the greatest philosophical conundrums in theology

Caroline B. Glick: The disappearance of US will

Megan Wallgren: 10 things I've learned from my teenagers

Lizette Borreli: Green Tea Boosts Brain Power, May Help Treat Dementia

John Ericson: Trying hard to be 'positive' but never succeeding? Blame Your Brain

The Kosher Gourmet by Julie Rothman Almondy, flourless torta del re (Italian king's cake), has royal roots, is simple to make, . . . but devour it because it's simply delicious

April 14, 2014

Rabbi Dr Naftali Brawer: Passover frees us from the tyranny of time

Greg Crosby: Passing Over Religion

Eric Schulzke: First degree: How America really recovered from a murder epidemic

Georgia Lee: When love is not enough: Teaching your kids about the realities of adult relationships

Cameron Huddleston: Freebies for Your Lawn and Garden

Gordon Pape: How you can tell if your financial adviser is setting you up for potential ruin

Dana Dovey: Up to 500,000 people die each year from hepatitis C-related liver disease. New Treatment Has Over 90% Success Rate

Justin Caba: Eating Watermelon Can Help Control High Blood Pressure

The Kosher Gourmet by Joshua E. London and Lou Marmon Don't dare pass over these Pesach picks for Manischewitz!

April 11, 2014

Rabbi Hillel Goldberg: Silence is much more than golden

Caroline B. Glick: Forgetting freedom at Passover

Susan Swann: How to value a child for who he is, not just what he does

Cameron Huddleston: 7 Financial Tasks You Should Tackle Right Now

Sandra Block and Lisa Gerstner: How to Profit From Your Passion

Susan Scutti: A Simple Blood Test Might Soon Diagnose Cancer

Chris Weller: Have A Slow Metabolism? Let Science Speed It Up For You

The Kosher Gourmet by Diane Rossen Worthington Whitefish Terrine: A French take on gefilte fish

April 9, 2014

Jonathan Tobin: Why Did Kerry Lie About Israeli Blame?

Samuel G. Freedman: A resolution 70 years later for a father's unsettling legacy of ashes from Dachau

Jessica Ivins: A resolution 70 years later for a father's unsettling legacy of ashes from Dachau

Kim Giles: Asking for help is not weakness

Kathy Kristof and Barbara Hoch Marcus: 7 Great Growth Israeli Stocks

Matthew Mientka: How Beans, Peas, And Chickpeas Cleanse Bad Cholesterol and Lowers Risk of Heart Disease

Sabrina Bachai: 5 At-Home Treatments For Headaches

The Kosher Gourmet by Daniel Neman Have yourself a matzo ball: The secrets bubby never told you and recipes she could have never imagined

April 8, 2014

Lori Nawyn: At Your Wit's End and Back: Finding Peace

Susan B. Garland and Rachel L. Sheedy: Strategies Married Couples Can Use to Boost Benefits

David Muhlbaum: Smart Tax Deductions Non-Itemizers Can Claim

Jill Weisenberger, M.S., R.D.N., C.D.E : Before You Lose Your Mental Edge

Dana Dovey: Coffee Drinkers Rejoice! Your Cup Of Joe Can Prevent Death From Liver Disease

Chris Weller: Electric 'Thinking Cap' Puts Your Brain Power Into High Gear

The Kosher Gourmet by Marlene Parrish A gift of hazelnuts keeps giving --- for a variety of nutty recipes: Entree, side, soup, dessert

April 4, 2014

Rabbi David Gutterman: The Word for Nothing Means Everything

Charles Krauthammer: Kerry's folly, Chapter 3

Amy Peterson: A life of love: How to build lasting relationships with your children

John Ericson: Older Women: Save Your Heart, Prevent Stroke Don't Drink Diet

John Ericson: Why 50 million Americans will still have spring allergies after taking meds

Cameron Huddleston: Best and Worst Buys of April 2014

Stacy Rapacon: Great Mutual Funds for Young Investors

Sarah Boesveld: Teacher keeps promise to mail thousands of former students letters written by their past selves

The Kosher Gourmet by Sharon Thompson Anyone can make a salad, you say. But can they make a great salad? (SECRETS, TESTED TECHNIQUES + 4 RECIPES, INCLUDING DRESSINGS)

April 2, 2014

Paul Greenberg: Death and joy in the spring

Dan Barry: Should South Carolina Jews be forced to maintain this chimney built by Germans serving the Nazis?

Mayra Bitsko: Save me! An alien took over my child's personality

Frank Clayton: Get happy: 20 scientifically proven happiness activities

Susan Scutti: It's Genetic! Obesity and the 'Carb Breakdown' Gene

Lecia Bushak: Why Hand Sanitizer May Actually Harm Your Health

Stacy Rapacon: Great Funds You Can Own for $500 or Less

Cameron Huddleston: 7 Ways to Save on Home Decor

The Kosher Gourmet by Steve Petusevsky Exploring ingredients as edible-stuffed containers (TWO RECIPES + TIPS & TECHINQUES)

Jewish World Review

Homemade ice cream achieving the creamy texture, rich flavor of premium brands (Technique and 2 recipes)

By Cindy Dampier




JewishWorldReview.com | On Father's Day, I picked a fight with my dad.

The argument was about homemade ice cream, and the fact that for all the rosy memories of us gathered around my father's grinding monstrosity of an ice cream machine, waiting for that first taste, the ice cream was lousy.

"I think my ice cream tasted pretty good," my dad said, fondly nostalgic.

"Ummmm," I answered.

Then I told him: The homemade ice cream I'd had (made by him or me) just wasn't worth it.

Soupy, overly sweet, icy, bland and dependent on a space-hogging appliance.

My thinking goes, if homemade ice cream can't top the creamy texture and rich flavors found in any decent supermarket, why bother? Let's face it, even Haagen-Dazs vanilla bean is still unimpeachable.

"When I was a kid growing up," says Jeni Britton Bauer, creator of Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams, "we'd make ice cream, and I was always the kid who just wanted to go down to Haagen-Dazs."

But a few years ago, after becoming a nationally recognized ice cream professional, Britton Bauer conquered the home ice cream demon, developing recipes based on the idea that the results had to rival what you can get in a carton. Two cookbooks later, she's still encouraging people to try it at home. Somewhere along the way, she roped me in too.

I grudgingly started what I considered to be my last run at making ice cream, with a classic custard formula: eggs, cream, sugar. It froze into a near-replica of the bland homemade ice cream I remembered. Next, I tried Britton Bauer's recipe, which relies on cornstarch, not egg yolks, to thicken, and adds insurance in the form of a dab of cream cheese. It acts like the mustard in a vinaigrette — not essential but a handy middleman between oil and vinegar. Or in this case, butterfat and water. Then I met up with Britton Bauer, on tour for her second book, to ask her advice. I brought my very own samples along. She made a little face when she realized that the cream cheese had turned into tiny beads in the cream.

"Maybe," she suggested, "you didn't really whip all the lumps out?"

I would like to say I was undeterred, but I was a little deterred. Still, I whipped the cream cheese harder. I timed my boiling custard with more precision. I studied the chemistry of ice cream to figure out how to add flavors without upsetting texture. I forced ice cream-hungry children to study too. (My 8-year-old can now explain emulsion and what it has to do with ice cream.) In the end, we got chocolate that had more oomph than most store-bought versions. Our roasted cherry was a delicious taste of the farmers market, and a creamy lemon was tempting enough to be eaten late at night by the glow of the open freezer door, one unadorned spoonful at a time.

In the end, we'll always have Haagen-Dazs (and Steve's and Graeter's and Jeni's). But as my father said, "Really, making ice cream was just a fun project." That was the end of our argument; who can deny her dad a little fun? And seven or eight batches later, with the last of that cherry ice cream squirreled away in the freezer, I can admit it.

You were right, dad. This time.

ICE CREAM DREAMS

Skip the disappointment and get straight to making delicious ice cream.

Give into science: Though I'm not a naturally precise cook, learning to be exact about the base custard recipe is key to achieving the proper texture. Which allows you to experiment with ways to add flavor. Yes, the cream cheese really does have to be at room temperature.

Be patient: The canister machines need a good 24 hours to refreeze before you try another batch. Just go with it. And turn the freezer down as low as it will go. Colder is better.

Watch the water: Icy ice cream comes from added water, so take care when adding any ingredient that will upset the water/fat balance. Finding ways to flavor without adding water is an interesting challenge. (Steeping lemon zest in hot cream, for instance, rather than adding juice, gave great results.) Britton Bauer's first book gives a very useful rundown of types of flavorings and when/how to incorporate them.

Eat it up: Homemade ice cream won't keep for more than a couple days without losing some texture. Tell that to your personal trainer.

SWEET CREAM ICE CREAM

PREP: 50 minutes
COOK: 7-8 minutes
CHILL: 30 minutes
FREEZE: 4 hours
MAKES: 1 quart, 8 servings

From "Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream Desserts" by Jeni Britton Bauer (Artisan, $23.95). Make sure to freeze the canister from your ice cream machine overnight. This base can be flavored with the variations below.

  • 2 2/3 cups whole milk
  • 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch
  • 2 ounces (4 tablespoons) cream cheese, softened
  • 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 1/4 cup light corn syrup




WE FEED YOUR SOUL, INTELLECT --- AND STOMACH

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Mix about 2 tablespoons milk with the cornstarch in a small bowl to make a smooth slurry. Whisk the cream cheese and salt in a medium bowl until smooth. Fill a large bowl with ice and water.

Combine the remaining milk, cream, sugar and corn syrup in a 4-quart saucepan; heat to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil, 4 minutes. Remove from heat; gradually whisk in the cornstarch slurry. Heat the mixture back to a boil over medium-high heat; cook, stirring with a spatula, until slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Remove from heat.

Gradually whisk the hot milk mixture into the cream cheese until smooth. Pour the mixture into a 1-gallon zip-close freezer bag; submerge the sealed bag in the ice bath. Let stand, adding more ice as necessary, until cold, about 30 minutes.

Turn on the ice cream machine. Pour the ice cream base into the canister; spin until thick and creamy. Pack the ice cream into a storage container. Press a sheet of parchment directly against the surface; seal with an airtight lid. Freeze in the coldest part of your freezer until firm, at least 4 hours.

Nutrition information per 1/2 cup serving: 340 calories, 22 g fat, 13 g saturated fat, 78 mg cholesterol, 34 g carbohydrates, 4 g protein, 126 mg sodium, 0 g fiber

Chocolate: Combine 1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, 1/2 cup brewed coffee and 1/2 cup sugar in a small sacucepan; heat to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil, 30 seconds. Remove from the heat; add 1 1/2 ounces bittersweet chocolate (55 to 70 percent cacao), finely chopped; let stand, 5 minutes. Stir until smooth. To make the chocolate ice cream, whisk the syrup with the cream cheese and salt in Step 1. Then proceed as written.

Roasted cherries: Toss 1 1/2 pints fresh sweet or tart cherries, pitted, with 1/3 cup sugar and about 1 teaspoon cornstarch on a rimmed baking sheet; roast at 375 degrees until cherries release some juice and it begins to thicken, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, add 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice and crush with a fork or potato masher. To make cherry ice cream, add 1/2 cup crushed cherries to warm cream once it is removed from heat (end of step 2). Proceed with recipe. Serve the remaining cherries with the finished ice cream as a mix-in, topping or both.

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