JWR Wandering Jews

Jewish World Review Jan. 7, 2002 / 23 Teves, 5762

JERUSALEM DIARIST



The Lesson of the Wall


http://www.jewishworldreview.com -- FROM my second week here it already haunted me. I had some time off from my studies one day at the beginning of my year in Israel, so I hailed a cab, rode through the streets of the holy city of Jerusalem, and found myself in a matter of minutes at the Western Wall. It was a hot afternoon, around midday, and I hurried to join the usual eclectic mix of Wall-goers who joined together to pray.

I was standing just footsteps from where the patriarch Abraham almost sacrificed his son Isaac, and merely strides from where Jacob dreamt of the famous ladder with angels ascending and descending its heavenly rungs, when suddenly the low rumble of Muslim prayers from the Al Aqsa Mosque atop the Temple Mount jarred me awake into an unsettling reality. The Western Wall is an apt metaphor for the reality facing us today: Jews and Muslims cry out to G-d in a discordant mix of emotion, while common ground is elusive and those of us on the Jewish side keep one eye out for airborne rocks.

I left that day feeling very unsettled, and even more depressed. Yet time went on, and like many Americans who have "braved the journey" up to our land in the past 15 months of the intifada, the horrifying visions of American media coverage on the Middle East slowly lost their hold on my consciousness and heart as I began to realize how distorted those images really were.

No, thank G-d, I am not dodging stones and snipers on my way to the falafel stand down my street, and I don't have to check the fruit in my local grocery store for explosive materials, as prime-time news might want you to think.

I spend Shabbes, Sabbath, at in a variety of locations, from bustling cities like Petah Tikvah to small communities like Nof Ayalon. My school takes us on tiyulim, tours, involving everything from mountain climbing in the Galil, to a walk through the valley of Mevaseret. I have ridden donkeys, kayaked, dressed in Bedouin clothing to eat in a Bedouin tent, traveled to places mentioned in the Tanach while simultaneously reading the actual stories of what occurred there, and seen the remnants from vessels during the Temple period that were discovered under our tour guide's house.

Where else but in Israel can you visit the sight where the oldest recorded writing of a Torah verse was found in an ancient grave, and then look up to see construction workers building a building right next to it? Everything in Jerusalem is holy, even the office buildings.

Still, this is not to sugarcoat the situation. I had friends who experienced the horror of the bombings that ripped through the center of town on a quiet Saturday night just a few weeks ago. Friends of mine who are enrolled at certain schools near places such as Gilo have heard the sounds of helicopters and bombings many times, and friends of mine who take buses do spend a significant amount of time with their heads turned over their shoulders.

But you know what? Life goes on, and it goes on pretty darn well despite all of this. After all, how could it not, when we are living in a place where our rabbis tell us the air makes us wise, and where tradition states that we gain reward in the next world for every four cubits that we walk? So despite the attacks, on a day-to-day basis things appear to be very normal. That is, except for the strange scenario that happens every day at our beloved Western Wall. One Shabbes, I prayed at Yeshivat HaKotel, known for the best view in the Old City, and I could simultaneously see droves of Jews davening the morning service at the Western Wall and Arabs walking around the Temple Mount. All that separated them was a wall, yet they were worlds apart.

Weeks later I arrived at the Western Wall at the start of the Muslim holy month of Ramadan. Every item in my suitcase was checked as I went through security. And as I entered the Temple area, hoards of fully armed police and soldiers in riot gear commanded my attention as they prepared for any possible violence due to the start of Ramadan. The next morning, it started raining outside (a much-needed blessing in Israel right now) and in sadness I went to the window of the apartment where I was staying to glance out at our beautiful Western Wall.

What I saw right there, finally put all of my sadness and confusion to rest at long last: Hordes of Jews were heading toward the Western Wall in a bright sea of umbrellas to pray despite both the rain and the possible violence that the beginning of Ramadan could engender. They continuously pushed forward toward the Wall in determined droves as the torrents of rain beat down on them. And it was then that it all became clear.

Yes, the Arabs have pierced our quiet slumber of peace of recent years and jarred us awake. Still, let them throw at us what they may, let them barrage us with their screams and prayers just yards away from our holiest place on earth, but when it really comes down to it, nothing can or will keep us from our our land and our beliefs. We are a people who have braved the rain before, and who are not afraid to brave it again. And although we may be a little weather-beaten after all this time, we are certainly far from beaten.

And it was then, as the sea of umbrellas became blurry in my view, that I knew that despite all that has happened in the past 15 months, despite all the terror that we have endured, Am Yisrael, the Jewish Nation, will prevail. Come rain or shine, we will pull through ...

  —   Beth Pollack

Beth Pollack, of Skokie, Ill., is a graduate of the Ida Crown Jewish Academy and is spending this year at Michlelet Mevaseret Yerushalyim. She will be attending the University of Pennsylvania next year. Comment by clicking here.


© 2002, JUF News, where this piece first appeared.